Napa Tourist Guide

1. ANGELE

A former boathouse on the river! WALLY SAYS "French cuisine served in a casually elegant setting"

A true locals hangout, Angel's has some serious local credentials. One of it's owners built Auberge du Soleil while the other managed The French Laundry and was General Manager at both Bistro Jeanty and Bistro Don Giovanni. Modeled after a Paris bistro that was downstairs where the mother of the owners lived, Angele offers both intimate inside dining as well as outside terrace dining with a view of the river. The setting is warm contemporary - cement floors mixed with an open wood beamed ceiling - you'll feel comfortable whether you arrive in khaki's or dressed up in style. Located in the historic Napa Mill building, you might want to arrive a bit early to browse the goods at the Napa General Store, a fun store filled with unusual housewares, cookbooks, and plenty of "made in Napa" goods.

Angele's has recently been getting some "hit or miss" reviews, but my experiences have always been positive - from the killer burger and fries at lunch to the Classic Cassoulet for two, made with their homemade sausage, ham hock, duck confit and cellini beans - oh, and a side of “Gratin de Macaroni”, known to you as mac-n-cheese done up French style. A delightful setting makes this one of the more romantic restaurants in the downtown area.

ANGELE
500 Main Street, Napa
707. 252.8115
$$$$

2. BOUNTY HUNTER

An incredible wine bar with incredible home style foods! WALLY SAYS "Beer Can Chicken for 2 makes this a perfect spot for dinner - even if you're not looking for cheap eats!"

Sometimes after a long, hard day of Winetasting the last thing you want to do is put on your fancy clothes to go to a fancy restaurant to be served fancy food. That's when you need to head over to The Bounty Hunter, a Wine Bar that not only has 40 wines by the glass (and over 400 bottles to choose from, including some delightfully rare wines) but serves up great food as well. The Beer Can Chicken for Two, served still sitting on a beer can with a couple of salads and bread, is a bargain at $24 (served only Thursday through Saturday). They also have excellent sandwiches (try the Rubenesque, stacked high like a New York deli), sausages and fall-off-the-bone ribs, a terrific Cataplana (a Portuguese spicy fish stew with mussels and chorizo) and satisfying steaks. If you're hungry, and I mean John Candy hungry, opt for the Cowboy Steak, a 36 oz bone-in ribeye. The food quality is as good as their extensive wine collection, which is even more incredible once you realize the "kitchen" is mainly the barbeques and smokers out back.

The ambiance is sort of like a hunting lodge with big leather chairs and stuffed animal heads on the walls. Their table bases are made of wine barrels and there's a real down home, country cozy sort of feel. No hip pretensions here, though they do know their wines so be careful before spouting off your opinion unless you know what you are talking about, especially since the guy next to you might be a local winemaker. Check out the Monday night specials like $5 ribs and half off house wines - oh yeah, save me a seat!

Being a wine bar means they have plenty of variations on wine flights - try the Killer Cab Club Tasting if you like big reds. If you like what you tasted and want to join the Wine Club to have them delivered to your door, the tasting's only a buck! There's also a wide selection of beers, as well as great lemonade and a tasty vanilla creme soda if you've had your fill of alcohol that day. Super friendly and filled with locals, this is the place to come to just chill out and have some great food, conversation, and wine. Even if you don't dine here, worth a stop for a flight of wines and some appetizers just for the local ambiance.

BOUNTY HUNTER
975 First Street, Napa
800.943.9463
$$

3. CELADON

Contemporary interior, but opt for the outdoor patio on a warm Summer night! WALLY SAYS "Yes, it's romantic! My TOP DOWNTOWN PICK! "

Celadon is like that great restaurant in your hometown that you take your friends to whenever they come to visit. It feels like home with consistently good food and a setting that's both elegant and comfortable. The indoor area is more upscale - come dressed up a bit to sit inside. Outside on the patio is a different story. With old bricks and open steel supports, it feels almost industrial - but in a very good way. The warm glow of the fireplace sets the mood, one which is unmistakably romantic. Try to get the table for two next to the fireplace if you can. If not, heaters make sure the outside setting stays nice and comfortable. Business dinner, sit inside. Romantic date, outside.

They call this cuisine "Global Comfort Food", which to be honest scared me a bit. I'm not a big fan of weird fusion dishes that fuse just for the sake of fusing, and I absolutely hate restaurants with BPS - "big plate syndrome" - you know, the expensive huge plates with tiny portions where the chef yells "BAM!" as he throws spices around the edges. So imagine my surprise when my appetizer, a bowl of mussels cooked with applewood bacon, tomato's, and wine came out. The moment it hit my taste buds I knew I was in for a delightful evening. The flavors burst with freshness unlike any mussel dish I had ever had. It was perfectly prepared, not a hint of fishiness often found with subpar seafood. This was fresh, the real deal, the best I had ever had. Entrees were equally impressive, each one prepared with style and innovation. They used foods you probably know well - duck, lamb, or pasta - yet somehow they combined them all in a way that suggests something new, fresh, exciting. It's like your taste buds have been eating in black and white and now someone turned on the Technicolor.

When I'm staying downtown, I always go to Celedon. But even if you're not staying in the area, it's worth the short drive. You can't miss with Celadon - my top pick for downtown.

CELADON
500 Main Street, Napa
707.254.9690
$$$$

4. COLE'S CHOP HOUSE

A serious steak house! WALLY SAYS "Think Ruth's Chris, only better!"

What goes better with a Napa cabernet than a good steak? Locals all agree, when you want a steak, and not just any steak but a high quality, dry-aged, prime piece of meat, you go to one place and one place only - Cole's Chop House. Owned by Greg Cole, the same person who brought you the more casual Celadon, Cole's Chop House is an upscale, fine dining steak house, much in the same vein as Ruth's Chris only done up Napa-style. Zaget called it the best steakhouse in the entire San Francisco Bay Area. Even if you don't agree (after all, there are some fine steakhouses in San Francisco), at least you know that this place comes with some fine recommendations.

Housed in old 1800's exhibit hall once used for the Napa and Sonoma fairs, the spacious two story restaurant features the original wood floors, an open truss ceiling, and exposed stone walls. It's a substantial building to go with a substantial meal. Like all fine steakhouses, you order your cut of meat and sides separately. Bone-in Ribeye, Lamb Chops, a 24 oz Porterhouse - you know what I'm talking about. A la carte sides you'd expect - creamed spinach, grilled asparagus with hollandaise - plus one that might surprise you - Hash Browns! You'll wonder why no one else has thought of that after trying them with your steak. Oh yeah, this is fine dining the way I like it.

So Cole's is the place, but it's not cheap. It's definitely a "dress up" sort of place, and expect to drop big bucks by the end of the meal. But also expect to leave satisfied that you got what you paid for as Cole's has yet to disappoint those looking for the best steak in the valley served up in an elegant and sophisticated setting.

COLE'S CHOP HOUSE
1122 Main Street, Napa
707.224.6328
$$$$$

5. CUVEE

Don't let the parking lot location scare you away! WALLY SAYS "It's sort of like Rutherford's Grill... sort of"

I know what you're thinking. The location next to The River Terrace Inn is making you wonder if this isn't a dressed up Chili's, a tourist trap wannabe preying on the poor business traveler who doesn't have enough sense (or energy) to go any further than the parking lot for a meal. I thought the same thing. When I summoned up my courage and stepped inside, I was taken aback by the beautiful setting. The open courtyard makes you forget that the parking lot is right on the other side of the wall. Candles light the tables, plants soften the walls, this is some romantic place. Inside, its chic and trendy interior attracts the local Happy Hour crowd. There's good energy in the air, a sense of excitement.

Cuvee serves Napa Cuisine, California Cuisine, call it what you want - it's basically upscale comfort foods like Lacquered bbq'd Ribs for an appetizer (very good, tender) and entrees like Chianti Braised Short Ribs or Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder (both excellent). The Potato Wrapped Salmon was another standout dish. Cuvee offers a "3 for $33" special every Wednesday - pick any appetizer, any entree, and any dessert for $30. And guess what? There's no corkage fee on Wednesday after 5PM either, so bring that bottle of wine you bought that day with you. There's not many good deals in Napa, but this is one of them. Want a Happy Hour after drinking wine all day? Of course you do, and Cuvee's $5 specials like beautifully executed fried calimari or a short plate of ribs hits the spot, especially when paired with half off drinks like Grey Goose martinis or $5 wine specials. One of the best deals in town.

Cuvee takes a lesson from Rutherford Grill by offering good food at a good price in a nice setting. It doesn't quite match the ambiance and vibe of Rutherford Grill, but it's close - and way closer if you are staying downtown.

CUVEE
1650 Soscol Ave, Napa
707.224.2330
$$$

6. NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN

A gourmet dinner on a refurbished 1915 Pullman train car? WALLY SAYS "If you like trains, you'll like this trip!"

Bashed by locals, trashed by foodies, the Wine Train is nevertheless one of the key tourist attractions in the valley. The premise is simple - bring back the days of elegant dining on a train, serving up gourmet foods and wines as the train makes the trek from downtown to St. Helena. Depending on who you are, it's either a wonderfully nostalgic and romantic experience, or the equivalent of a Booze Cruise on wheels where you hope for a derailing just so you can get off.

The history of the Wine Train starts back in 1864 when Samuel Brannon, who made millions during the Gold Rush era selling goods to the miners, came up with the idea of turning Calistoga into a resort town. He needed a train to transport the tourists, and that it did until 1929 when the tracks were turned over to Southern Pacific to be used for freight. In 1987, Southern Pacific abandoned the line, paving the way for the Wine Train, which made its debut in 1989. The Napa Valley Wine Train was the brainchild of Vincent DeDomenico, co-inventer of Rice-A-Roni and owner of Ghirardelli Chocolates. His vision was to create an experience similar to that of the Orient Express, an experience that was once reserved for the wealthiest of the wealthy.

Refurbished back to their original glory, whether it be a 1915 Dining car or the futuristic 1947 Vista Dome car, it's an authentic train experience. The basic dinner trip is a three hour ride that starts in Downtown Napa at a not-so-authentic train station. Traveling north to St. Helena, you'll be served appetizers and may purchase wine or cocktails. Then the train turns around and dinner is served as you head back to downtown. The food is upscale and executed well, though I doubt you will be calling it the best in Napa. I would compare the quality to a good business dinner at a hotel. You won't be blown away, but you won't be disappointed. Come on, it's being prepared on a train! Give the poor chef a break! The train ride itself is interesting, albeit a bit rocky - I really enjoyed standing outside on the back of the train watching the sunset. You won't see much that you haven't already seen - after all, the train travels parallel to Highway 29 - and you won't see anything once the sun sets, so use that time to gaze into the eyes of the person across from you (hopefully your wife and not the hot young chick at the other table).

You probably figured this out by now, but for the dinner trip you do not get off the train. For that experience you'll want to check into the daytime rides where you visit either Domaine Chandon or stop at Grgich Winery for a private tour. There's also daytime lunch trips, which I don't recommend as it takes up too much of the day (you should be out winetasting, not winetraining) as well as Murder Mystery evening rides.

With the basic dinner package costing a hundred bucks without wine, it's not cheap. In fact, if all you are looking for is good food, you'll find much better food at a non-moving restaurant for less. And to be honest, the service should be a bit better for this price and the windows on the train could use a good washing. But who can argue with the other travelers who got off raving about how much fun they had and grabbing the souvenir photos of themselves standing in front of the train that they were selling at the end? It's that sort of experience.

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN
1275 McKinstry Street, Napa
707.253.2111
$$$$$

7. ZUZU

The hippest place in Napa? WALLY SAYS "It's tapas, meaning small plates of good eats!"

It's the strangest thing, but sometimes I just can't decided what to order when I go out to eat. It's worse when the menu is full of stuff that sounds so tasty - I want to try it all, but when I'm forced to select just one I tense up and my brain freezes with indecision. That's when I wish I had just gone to Zuzu, a hip new trendy place that serves up tapas, otherwise known as "small plates" - sort of like a restaurant that just serves appetizers. With tapas you don't order an entree, but rather get a bunch of small plates of different things and sample away until you're full or broke. And at Zuzu, these small plates of Spanish meets Napa foods are so good that you'll be happy with every selection.

So what kind of food am I talking about? How about a taste of roasted baby artichokes, then a bite of flat iron steak, why not add the new potatoes with mushrooms fried in duck fat, gotta try that paella, wait, add some sizzling prawns, a plate of duck with couscous, and anyone want to share the Moroccan barbequed rack of lamb? It's got a Spanish flair to the food, but it's with the Napa crowd in mind. With plates averaging between $6 to $9, try them all. The meat dishes are a bit more expensive, but there's nothing over $14.

Hey, you with the calculator - pay attention for a second! I know what you're thinking. You're adding up all the small plates and wondering if it's going to cost you just as much to dine here as a "real" restaurant. But that would be missing the point, because dining on tapas at Zuzu is an experience, not a financial decision based on ROI. But to set you straight, yes, it's going to cost you about as much as dining at a full plate restaurant because most people will get 3 to 4 plates each. But come on, with some mediocre restaurants now charging $10 for a plate of greasy fried calamari, to get incredibly creative gourmet plates for around the same price is a good deal. And the ambiance? With latin music in the background and a trendy crowd mix of locals with visitors, this is one lively place at dinnertime. Come here to have some fun, to kick back and relax as you try new things. Keep an open mind and try lots of new flavors and you just might be one of those folks who swear that Zuzu has the best food in Napa.

ZUZU
829 Main Street, Napa
707.224.8555
$$$$

1. AD HOC

Thomas Keller opens up a temporary restaurant, calls it Ad Hoc, and it becomes a sensation! WALLY SAYS "I'll have what they're having!"

Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame bought this place with the idea of turning it into an upscale burger and wine restaurant, sort of an trendy In-N-Out. The original plan was to open Ad Hoc for a few months while he prepared his plans for the burger joint. But something happened along the way that changed everything. Ad Hoc, with the family friendly prix fixe menu, became an overnight sensation, a bonafied hit in Napa. So the temporary restaurant became permanent, much to the delight of locals and tourists alike looking for that taste of French Laundry but at fried chicken prices.

Fried chicken? Before I go any further, let me tell you that if you see Fried Chicken on their menu that day then you must forget all prior plans and just go. They only serve it every other Monday and it might change your life. Made from organic, range free chickens, the meat is juicy and flavorful and the batter thick and substantial. Expect a big crunch when you take that bite. I know it's expensive for fried chicken but no one, and I mean no one, walks away from Ad Hoc's fried chicken without saying it's the best they've ever had. You'll never go back to the bucket again (OK, at least not when you're in Napa). Even if you miss fried chicken night, know that just about everything else he served up here comes back with the same rave reviews. Best flank steak. Best duck. Best pork tenderloin. It's all goood.

Now back to the restaurant. There's one menu, everyone gets the same thing, one price. They change the menu daily based on what's fresh and available, so stop by or call that morning to see what's for dinner. Ad Hoc is a casual restaurant, certainly more casual than The French Laundry and Bouchon, though I would recommend that you still dress nice to fit in. The food is served up family style on platters, wine served in drinking cups, and every meal includes a salad, entree, cheese plate, and dessert. At $48 it's not cheap, but it's over $200 cheaper than the meal down the street at The French Laundry! And considering Thomas Keller has often been seen dining there with his family, you know the food meets the same high standards he sets for his more exclusive restaurants.

AD HOC
6476 Washington Street, Yountville
707.944.2487
$$$$

2. BISTRO JEANTY

You'll hear it again and again - "You must dine at Bistro Jeanty!" WALLY SAYS "I did, and I loved it!"

"Yes, you must dine at Bistro Jeanty. And you must order the tomato soup". Those are words of wisdom from virtually every local I've met in Napa. I filed that thought in my brain under "hmmm" and took a stroll through Yountville. French restaurants as a whole scare me. Will it be uptight and stuffy? Will the waiters look at me with that look when I mispronounce everything? After all, I'm just a normal kind of guy who's pretty happy with a good rack of ribs for dinner. But even I know that you can't eat at Rutherford Grill every night, so maybe it was time to stretch out and try something different.

I arrived at Bistro Jeanty and peeked inside. To my surprise, it looked absolutely inviting. No snooty French dining here, this was like a real bistro in Paris, a friendly neighborhood sort of place where people are laughing and everyone is having a good time. So far, so good - but I knew that it had to pass the price test. After all, this is Napa where you better know what you are getting yourself into before you sit down if you want to avoid menu sticker shock. I braced myself and nearly fell over when I saw that most entrees were under $20. Ribeye steak with fries and béarnaise sauce for $28? With some wineries now costing $20 for tasting's, this seemed like an absolute bargain. But will it be good?

We arrived later that evening dressed casual but nice - not jeans, but not quite the dreaded "business casual". Our reservation time came and went with much apologies from the staff - it appeared that the table slated for us did not want to leave as they were enjoying themselves so much. We were asked if we would like to sit at the "communal table", a long table in front that's open to anyone without a reservation. The rustic setting looked inviting, but we decided to wait for the table in the back near the fireplace instead. But I filed that communal table suggestion away as a "good idea" next time I forget to make a reservation but still want to dine in Yountville.

More time passed, more apologies, and we were finally seated about 20 minutes past our reservation time. Once we were at a romantic table in back, we were glad we didn't cave in to the rustic communal table in front. The crisp white tablecloth, the glow of the fireplace, this was some romantic place. Much to our delight, the waiter came back with a plate of SAUMON FUMÉ AU BISTRO, thinly sliced smoked salmon served up carpaccio style, as a way to apologize one more time for the wait. One bite and apology accepted - it was melt in your mouth delicious and made me all but forget that we waited so long for our table. And then the food started arriving.

For those of you who fear ordering in a foreign language, the menu at Bistro Jeanty offers easy to understand descriptions in English. We started with the much hyped Tomato Soup, otherwise know as CRÊME DE TOMATE EN CROUTE. It arrived with a flaky puff pastry on the top so beautiful you almost didn't want to break through it to get to the soup. But we did, and boy was this good, living up to all the hyperbole we had heard. Next up, SALADE AUX LARDONS ET OEUF MOLLET, which is the salad with the soft boiled egg and apple smoked bacon dressing. Hey, I love bacon and eggs so this seemed like my kind of salad! The egg was cooked perfectly, all rich and creamy inside, and who can argue with bacon dressing? It was every bit as good as what I had on a recent trip to Paris. Wow, my taste buds were happy so far. For entrees we had a couple of French standards, the COQ AU VIN (chicken, mushrooms, bacon again, in a red wine stew) and CASSOULET (baked beans with duck confit , sausage and again, apple smoked bacon). It was magnifique! Large portions of good food make me very happy, and happy I was. In fact, the only thing I would do different next time is to ask for a couple of extra plates and dine "family style" to sample each dish, which the waiter later said would have been perfectly fine to do.

Our entire meal came to $65 for two without wine - that's a bargain in any town, but a steal in Napa. Now I know that it would be difficult to call Bistro Jeanty a secret find - after all, everyone knows about it, it's in every tourist guide, and recommended by every concierge. Yet it somehow has eluded the masses who have no problem lining up at Taylor's for a $14 ahi burger. Let's keep it that way - but trust Local Wally when I tell you to dine here. Romantic, delicious, it's bound to be one of your favorite meals in Napa.

BISTRO JEANTY
6510 Washington Street, Napa
707.944.0103
$$$ to $$$$

3. BOUCHON

Thomas Keller's take on a French Bistro! WALLY SAYS "French Laundry on a budget?"

Sometimes you just don't want to drop $800 on a dinner for two. Or maybe you forgot to make reservations two months in advance. But don't just stand outside The French Laundry and pout. Instead, take a short drive down the street to the cherry looking building all dressed up in red paint and have a seat at Bouchon, another Thomas Keller restaurant.

From the moment you arrive at Bouchon, you get a sense of its personality. The front patio is lively on a warm Summer evening, filled with casually dressed people having a great time sipping wine and dining on first class meals. Inside, it's fancier and romantic, the place you might go for that special night out. If Bistro Jeanty is like a pair of your favorite old jeans, Bouchon is a pair of designer jeans made to look like your favorite old jeans. It gives off the appearance of a casual restaurant, but this is serious food worthy of the Thomas Keller name.

Start with the French Onion Soup. Come on Wally, isn't that cliche? No, seriously, this is some fantastic soup! Share a bowl if you don't believe me, but you have to trust me to start with the soup. Steak Frites, another classic and perhaps another cliche? Trust me again, these might be the best fries you'll ever have! Huge portion - Hmmm, did I request Supersized by accident? And the steak? Pan fried flatiron steak served up with butter? Good?? You bet. Comfort foods like slow braised beef short ribs, terrific seafood dishes like Bouillabaisse with monkfish, crab, shrimp, mussels and fennel - oh yeah, that'll do the trick! As Rachael Ray would say, "YUM-O!" :-)

What's great about Bouchon is that budget minded diners who order carefully can experience Thomas Keller's food without breaking the bank. Order the dozen mussels to start for $6, the delicious Croque Madame, a toasted ham and cheese sandwich with a fried egg and mornay sauce on top with those fabulous fries for $16, you'll leave happy and satisfied. Of course, you can spend much, much more if your food cravings lean towards caviar ($125) or foie gras ($45). There's even a huge seafood sampler called the Grand Plâteau, which offers a full lobster, 16 oysters, 8 shrimp, 8 clams, 9 mussels, and seasonal crab for $95. Spend a little, spend a lot, the result is the same - an authentic Thomas Keller food experience in Napa. It's not The French Laundry, but it is definitely Thomas Keller.

BOUCHON
6534 Washington Street, Napa
707.944.8037
$$$$

4. BISTRO DON GIOVANNI

You want Italian in Napa, you go to Bistro Don Giovanni's! WALLY SAYS "It's a locals favorite!"

Just before you get to Yountville is Bistro Don Giovanni. To be honest, I've driven past this place hundreds of times with no desire to ever stop. From the road it looks like a nice enough restaurant but nothing special, and the location by itself made me think "tourist trap for hungry visitors not patient enough to keep driving 5 more minutes to get to Yountville". But everywhere I went, Napa locals kept telling me about Bistro Don Giovanni. Some loved it, telling me that this was their favorite restaurant.. Others told me to stay away, calling it the "most overrated restaurant in Napa". With that, it's off to dinner to see what's really up.

Once I entered the restaurant, I started to understand what the buzz was all about. Lively, trendy, this place was bubbling over with a a friendly attitude. People were having a great time, and the smells from the kitchen pulled you in. There's a fireplace on the patio with heaters to keep everyone toasty. Man, this is some nice setting. Views of the vineyards and mountains, fountains, some cool landscaping, it was like being transported to Tuscany. This isn't the Olive Garden. So far, so good.

The menu is what you would expect - Caesar salad, pizzas, fried calamari, pastas, steaks, chicken and seafood. Nothing too out of the ordinary, but then again it's all about execution at this point. The Frito Misto arrived piping hot with fried calamari, rock shrimp, green beans, fennel and onions, served up with a nice aioli sauce. Light and crispy, it was a great way to start the meal. For pasta I picked the ravioli, which was fresh and delightful. I hate making food decisions, so when they asked if I wanted the lemon or tomato sauce I asked for half and half, which turned out to be a great decision as they are both very good. By now I was pretty full - in fact, if it wasn't for the fact I was supposed to be writing a review I probably would have quit right there and called it a night. But sometimes you have to do what you have to do, so it was on to the main course - wood roasted Sonoma duck. I don't mess around, I see duck on the menu and I have to try it - very tasty with a nice smoke and crispy skin, a serious contender for one of my favorite meals. We didn't do desserts (you have to stop somewhere) but the ones being served around us looked fantastic. The Bostini Triffle, layers of custard, chocolate cake, carmel, nuts, and whipped cream, almost made me change my mind.

So what's the verdict? Wally liked it. I side with the locals who love this place. You can get in and out and still have money for winetasting the next day if you just stick with the $15 pastas and split a salad, and that's really enough food for a normal appetite. And if you're hungry, the steak frites or leg of lamb will do the trick. OK, service could kick up a notch, but I'm rather patient when I'm on vacation so perhaps that's the difference. If this was my neighborhood joint, I might expect a bit crisper service. But as a visitor, sitting outside on the patio overlooking the vineyards with a plate of pasta is about as good as it gets.

BISTRO DON GIOVANNI
4110 Howard Lane, Napa
707.224.3300
$$$

5. THE FRENCH LAUNDRY

Thomas Keller creates one of the world's best restaurants! WALLY SAYS "It's a once in a lifetime experience!"

Either you get it, or you don't. It's that simple. Spending $250 per person for a meal, $50 corkage fee or hundred dollar-plus bottles of wine, a two month waiting list that's booked solid by noon - The French Laundry is not for everyone. To appreciate it, you must first put aside the cost and understand the concept. It's a nine course tasting menu, meaning you get a small plate of the best food expertly prepared. You take a few bites, your eyes light up with a huge smile - and then it's gone, leaving you with a wish you could have just a little bit more. But then, another plate arrives with a different taste and you do it all over again. Think of it as edible art that's designed to delight all of your senses.

The French Laundry was probably described best by a server at a local winery. As a trained chef himself, he compared it to Swan Lake. It's a performance where everything is in place, everything is executed with perfection, where there's nothing on the plate or in the ingredients that doesn't deserve to be there. He also provided a bit of rationalization for the cost. If you look at it as an experience versus a meal, it's well worth it. How much would you pay to go to a concert these days? How much for the new shoes? How much is dinner beforehand? As he pointed out, it's quite easy to spend hundreds of dollars on a big evening out for two in the city, so why not spend the same money and experience The French Laundry? Sure, it would be cheaper to stay home and listen to a CD of Swan Lake, but going out to experience it is taking it to a whole new level. And if The French Laundry is like Swan Lake, you're experiencing the best performance of it ever. And that's what The French Laundry is all about - absolute culinary perfection.

That's great, Wally, but I still don't have that kind of money! Well, let Local Wally help you with a bit of fuzzy math to make this all work. If you stayed in downtown Napa instead of Yountville, you could save maybe $100 per night. If your trip to Napa is three nights, you just saved yourself $300. Skip the Wine Train (yes, skip it) and you just saved another $250. Put that money towards The French Laundry and all of a sudden this is starting to look no more expensive than a big night out back home! (If this logic works for you, welcome to my world!)

Now if your idea of a culinary delight is The Claim Jumper ("wow, that's one big ass potato!"), then don't go. Not yet. Wait until you can really appreciate this sort of experience and food. But when you're ready, and you'll know when you're ready, then dine at The French Laundry and have a "once in a lifetime" experience that you'll talk about till the end of your days.

THE FRENCH LAUNDRY
6640 Washington Street, Napa
707.753.0088
$$$$$$

6. HURLEY'S RESTAURANT AND BAR

Often overlooked, Hurley's delivers solid Napa cuisine! WALLY SAYS "What? A Yountville restaurant not owned by Thomas Keller?"

When you're surrounded by superstars, it's easy to get overlooked. Bouchon, Bistro Jeanty, Ad Hoc, The French Laundry.... man, that's some tough competition. So Hurley's often is regarded as the second choice, the place to go when everything else is already booked. But lucky is the diner who walks into Hurley's with few expectations as the food is surprisingly top tier, the setting warm and inviting, and the overall experience every bit as good as some of it's toughest rivals.

The dining area has a nice romantic feel to it with the warm woods, a blazing fireplace, white tablecloths. Not nearly as frenetic as some of the more popular places, it's a nice place to have a quiet dinner. The dining area is set in the back, away from the bar that can get pretty packed during the evening hours. The patio is hugely popular on a warm evening as well. The restaurant is owned by Bob Hurley, once the Chef at the high end Domaine Chandon restaurant and then the Executive Chef at Napa Valley Grille. He opened his own restaurant in 2002, mixing a bit of Mediterranean with California flavors. The menu features many standards done right, such as the Oakwood Grilled Ribeye Steak, but you might want to opt for something a bit unique like the Braised Wild Boar with truffle scented polenta, which tastes surprisingly a lot like beef short ribs. Delicious, very delicious. Great wine list as well, often featuring many hard to get local wines. Great lunch spot with their prixe fix menu, and a late night menu with burgers and sandwiches - if you missed the wild boar for dinner, try them in a slider "burger".

If Hurley's was in your hometown, it would be a huge hit, the best food in town, the place to go for a special night out. If this is your first visit to Napa, I don't blame you if you put some of the better known restaurants ahead of Hurley's as your first picks. But like that winery off the main road that turned out to be a delightful experience, Hurley's just might win you over as one of your favorite dining spots with great food, a romantic ambiance, and fair prices. It's not as popular as the others, but in many ways it delivers the same experience and quality without all the fuss, making it one of my favorites.

HURLEY'S RESTAURANT AND BAR
6518 Washington Street, Napa
707.944.2345
$$$$

7. MUSTARDS

No trip to Napa is complete without a meal at Mustards! WALLY SAYS "Like the sign says, Everything is Delicious!"

Who would have guessed that a pork chop could change the face of dining in Napa and spark a food trend that continues today? To understand the story, you have to go back to the early 1980's when if you wanted gourmet food, that meant getting dressed up in a suit (with a tie, of all things) and being waited on by stuffy guys in tuxedos who knew you didn't know which fork to use. And really, most of us had no idea what good food really was. Remember, back then when they said you get a choice of salad they meant you could choose whether you wanted Thousand Island or French dressing on top of your iceberg lettuce. And we were all cool with that in a Pleasantville sort of way.

Then Cindy Pawlcyn comes on the scene like a firecracker and changes things up. Looking like a nicer version of a roadside truckstop, Mustards was unique in that it offered upscaled comfort foods back when we didn't really even know what that meant. The menu looked familiar with things like chicken and ribs, but the descriptions made the foods sound wonderfully exotic. It was like Mom was still cooking, but somehow Mom got into the wrong box of herbs and was cooking in psychedelic colors. Salads became freshly grown exotic lettuces (now known as "spring mix" but back then known as "weeds"). The lowly pork chop transformed from fried till dried to a succulent grilled Mongolian Pork Chop bursting with flavor and moisture. It was new, it was exciting, and we've never looked back.

And so started the trend of taking foods we all know and love - comfort foods - but putting new twists and spins on them while still keeping the foundation of what we loved about them in the first place. Good food was now accessible to everyone, and you didn't have to dress up or feel intimidated to enjoy it. Restaurateurs noticed and started opening other restaurants using the same formula and before you knew it Napa became nearly as famous for its culinary credentials as its wine. And it's all because of this simple diner.

Today, even with brisk competition, Mustard's Grill still stands out as one of the best. It's as iconic as Mondavi Winery to your visit, so make sure you make a reservation or stop by for lunch. The charming dining room is contemporary and trendy, but don't worry, you can still pop in wearing jeans. Dress up a bit more for dinner if you like, but that's totally optional. While the idea of serving upscale comfort foods is no longer unique, no one does it as well as Cindy at Mustard's. Whether you go for the Truckstop Deluxe ("Always meat, usually potatoes, rarely vegetables") or the more exotic tea smoked duck, you won't be disappointed. As the sign out front said, Everything is Delicious.

SEPT 2009 UPDATE: Went there for dinner and had the Grilled Hanger Steak with caramelized cipollini onions, watercress sauce and french fries and all I can say is that my mouth is watering right now just thinking about it. I know, a simple hanger steak shouldn't be that good but this thing ranks as one of the best steaks I've ever had - better than Flemming's, better than Ruth's Chris! Seriously delicious, I don't know how they do it. I tasted the Housemade Ravioli made with Bellwether Farms fromage blanc, shaved asparagus, and citrus-mint butter and my taste buds almost exploded. Is this some of the best food in Napa? Maybe, maybe...!

MUSTARDS GRILL
7399 St. Helena Highway, Napa
707.944.2424
$$$ to $$$$

1. AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

A five star resort located high on a hill offers stunning views and delicious food! WALLY SAYS "Perfect for a long, long, relaxing lunch!"

You might think Auberge du Soleil is a resort, but it actually started as a restaurant. Opened in 1981, it was an instant hit with the fine dining crowd with it's French-influenced flavors fused with a Mediterranean elegance. By 1985, they opened the actual resort featuring cottages scattered amongst the olive trees on its 33 acres. Fast forward to 2009 and both the restaurant and the resort are thriving. They've created a casual elegance here, a nice setting that feels luxurious but doesn't make you feel unworthy.

Sitting outside on the patio for lunch is one of Napa's most indulgent delights. There are plenty of good views in Napa, but Auberge has one of the best sitting high on a hill overlooking the valley. Add some sunshine, a glass of wine, and you just might sit there for hours. In fact, don't come here if all you want is a lunch in-between winetasting. It's best for a long afternoon where you have nothing else to do but relax. Now the lunch menu is priced like what you will find at most places for dinner - $26 for stripped bass, $34 for scallops. That's a lot of money for lunch, I know. Add a salad, a couple glasses of wine, and you're spending some big bucks here. But then you do what Wally does and you rationalize by saying "hey, I can eat someplace cheaper for dinner" and it all works out. Heck, you'll be there so long that you can rationalize further by adding in all the money you just saved by not going up the dumb tram to Sterling Vineyards - add another $40 back to your wallet and now lunch at Auberge du Soleil is starting to look very do-able. And yes, it's delicious. Very delicious.

But let's say you really are poor but really want to experience this cool setting. I know, I've been there so take my advice and skip lunch here but come at sunset and go straight to the bar. Same view, but with much more reasonably priced appetizers - pomme frites with dipping sauces, anyone? Wow, is this heaven or what? Fries with a martini overlooking the Napa valley while sitting at Auberge du Soleil? Life is, as they say, sweeet! There's plenty of other food options at the bar that you could easily make a meal out of. "Where did you have dinner at" your friends will ask. "I always eat at Auberge du Soliel," you reply, adding "Reaallly, is there anyplace else?" with a slight smirk for effect. What a way to impress your friends back home!

Dinner gets a bit pricey for me with the $125 prixe fixe tasting menu ($216 if you add wine pairing). There's a more reasonably priced four course dinner for $98 as well for those of you on a budget, and if you must, you can also order a la carte. It's a bit rich for my blood, but I spoke to a couple who did indulge in the tasting menu and they said it was worth every penny, comparing it to their recent French Laundry experience, but I'll leave that decision up to you. For me, I'll stick with the lunch or the bar until I win the lotto and be perfectly happy.

AUBERGE DU SOLIEL
180 Rutherford Hill, Rutherford
800.348.5406
$$$$$

2. CINDY'S BACKSTREET KITCHEN

Cindy of Mustard's does it again with another casual eatery with great food! WALLY SAYS "Want to go to Cindy's house for dinner?"

Off the beaten path in St. Helena is a rustic cottage house. Cindy Pawlcyn, who found great success with Mustard's Grill, takes home cooking to the next level by cooking it in an actual home. Feeling more like a house than a restaurant, it's as comfortable as an old pair of docksiders yet still has that hip and upscale feel to it. There's white tablecloths and striped upholstery, an inviting patio with a wood burning brick fireplace, flowers lining the walkways, it's like you just stepped into an episode of Giada on Food TV - wait, maybe you did as this is one of the restaurants Giada raved about when she did an episode on Napa.

Cindy likes to take well known American foods and turn them inside out, keeping what made you love them in the first place but putting a new twist of spin on it to make it seem fresh and exciting. You'll find burgers, of course, but she also has a Chinatown Duck Burger made of ground duck and served with a shiitake mushroom ketchup. Meatloaf with horseradish bbq sauce, Mushroom Tamales, it's all familiar on one level and all new on another. Spiced rubbed quails for my wife, I'll go more basic with Steak Frites - and let me tell you, Cindy's never fails to please. Whether you just finished a long day of work or a long day of winetasting, Cindy's welcomes you into her home for a home cooked meal.

If you are lucky enough to be in Napa on Wednesdays, come to Cindy's for her Supper Club prixe fixe dinner. Each week Cindy visits the foods of a different culture - Morocco one week, the Greek Islands the next. Depending on the week you visit you might feast on the foods of New England, or find yourself in a Paris Bistro. It's all fun and lively and has Cindy's unique take on foods. Best yet, unlike some fixed priced dinners that cost as much as a new set of tires, Cindy's is priced at a reasonably $40. On Thursdays from 6:30 to 8:30 there's Celebrity Bartenders featuring local winemakers who not only will meet and greet the guests as they pour their own wines, but also try their hand behind the bar mixing up libations. That's pretty cool.

Cindy's is so fun and oh so local, you'll leave feeling like you're part of the gang. Stop by Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen and have dinner at Cindy's house for an experience that's uniquely Napa.

CINDY'S BACKSTREET KITCHEN
1327 Railroad Ave, St. Helena
707.963.1200

3. GO FISH

What's this, another restaurant by Cindy? WALLY SAYS "It's bright and contemporary and offers the best seafood in Napa!"

How could you not like Go Fish? Even from the roadside, it looks friendly and inviting with the big windows facing Highway 29 and the silly sign of an umbrella toting fish. Of course, this is another creation of Cindy Pawlcyn, the famous chef of Mustard's and Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen. Her idea was to create an upscale West Coast style seafood restaurant, complete with a San Francisco inspired raw bar. Like all of her restaurants, this is some serious good food but done up in a way that's fun and exciting, accessible and entertaining.

For lunch it was a trip to the sushi bar for me where I started with some fresh, and I mean super fresh, sushi. First bite, big smile. I had a very good feeling about this. On to the entrees where I ordered a Dungeness Crab Cake sandwich and my wife ordered the scallops. I got an even bigger smile when I bit into the crab cake, all fresh and tender and filled with crab, this is one of those dishes you can only describe as delightful. I'd put this one next to Taylor's ahi burger, which is quite a complement for both. My wife's scallops were equally impressive, served up with bits of fresh fruit in a buttery sauce, it passed the test. For lunch, Go Fish gets an A+. But how would it do for dinner?

Before we dive in for another meal, let me tell you about the decor. It's so fun and friendly with throw pillows on the bench seats, a big chalkboard with cool drawings of fish, it's warm and contemporary - hey, it sort of feels like Mustards in here. Jeans were fine for lunch, but for dinner we dressed up a bit so we would fit in with this hip crowd. The sushi bar was packed, the restaurant lively and popping. Since we already had the first class sushi, we opted out and went for the standard appetizers. I think that's a good idea anyway as I always felt that sushi with soy and wasabi is so defined and powerful to the palate that it doesn't always mix well with other flavors. It doesn't bother me at lunch, but for dinner either go all out for sushi, or go for the entree plates, but think twice before mixing. Hey, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Back to the appetizers - we started with the Fish and Chips. No, not giant pieces of greasy beer battered cod, but rather crispy smelt with tiny shoestring fries. Different, yes, tasty, yes, and definitely worth trying. Moving on to the menu, you get to pick "Fish your Way", or "Fish Our Way". Do it your way and you get to pick the way you want your fresh fish cooked, whether it's sauteed, wood grilled, or poached, and get to pick your own sauces. My suggestion? Ask the waiter what works best with what fish to get the best combination. If you're not sure what you're doing, doing it their way is a safer bet if you want a more creative, chef tested approach. I don't like to gamble with my food so I went their way with the Miso Marinated Black Cod with shiitake broth, which was absolutely delicious. My wife did it her way and had her fish grilled over the almond wood - nice and smoky and moist, it was another huge hit. You could certainly spend a lot of money her, but with careful ordering it's not hard to keep it under $30 per person for an entree and salad or appetizer, which is fantastic when you realize the super high quality of the dishes and the expert preparation. There's also steamers by the pound (add linguine for an additional $2 and you got yourself a meal for $15!) and plenty of oysters, too.

We were too stuffed for dessert, but man did they look good being served to the other diners around us. Next time it's no appetizer to save room for dessert. And yes, with food this good there will definitely be a next time. Lunch or dinner, you can't miss with Go Fish if you're seeking the best and freshest seafood in Napa and beyond.

GO FISH
641 Main Street, St. Helena
707.963.0700
$$$$

4. MARKET

A non pretentious neighborhood eatery serving up American classics! WALLY SAYS "Lots of locals here!"

In my hometown I group the restaurants into two categories - the ones you take out of town visitors to when you want to impress, and the ones you go to on a weekday when you want good food at a reasonable price. Market fits into the second category. The space it occupies was a drug store from the late 1800's until 1995 when it was converted to a candy store and later a restaurant. The original fieldstone walls give it impressive character, as does the impressive ornate wood that backs the bar, which was salvaged from the Grand Ballroom from The Palace Hotel in San Francisco. It's a beautiful setting, a picture perfect Napa setting.

I like to find out where the locals eat when I travel to Napa and on one particular trip the name Market came up again and again. Since we were staying in downtown I had my heart set on one of the many fine dining options there, but walking around St. Helena as the sun was going down I spied upon Market. It looked so inviting that I couldn't resist, so in we went to see what the buzz was about. That night I got the feeling we were the only tourists in the restaurant - people coming in and out greeted each other like they would after a Sunday church service.

We couldn't resist getting a plate of oysters after seeing the large selection on ice sitting behind the bar. Fresh and tasty, great quality and a good way to start. Next up, buttermilk fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, cornbread and garlic sauteed spinach. Oh my, this was good, very good. Nice and crispy crust on the chicken leg quarter, I only wish there was a bit more. But at $16, it was a good choice. My wife had the fresh trout, two fillets sitting in a nice sauce, and it too was outstanding. A lot of restaurants boast they serve comfort foods, but Market really did feel like home cooking to me. We couldn't resist getting an order of Very Adult Macaroni & Cheese, made with fiscalini cheddar, parmigiano-reggiano, and Hobb’s bacon. It's an entree, not a side, but we heard such good things about it that we had to have a bite. One bite and we understood why it's so hyped up - it was definitely gourmet mac and cheese, tangy and tantalizing to the taste buds.

Now let me warn you, Market gets mixed reviews on the various internet sites. That was surprising as our dining experience was nothing short of fantastic. Forget the lukewarm reviews and trust Local Wally and the locals on this. If you ever find yourself walking down the street in St. Helena, hungry and without a reservation, a stop in at Market will not disappoint.

MARKET
1347 Main Street, St. Helena
707.963.3799

5. MARTINI HOUSE

Fine dining in an old craftsman house! WALLY SAYS "Go downstairs for a casual bite"

On a warm summer night, Martini House attracts the diners like moths to a candle on the outdoor patio. The setting is so romantic, the craftsman house will make you feel like you stepped into an old movie with the glowing candlelit tables and the crickets chirping in the background. It's like eating in a dream, sitting in the backyard of a wonderful old house, this is a fine setting for a long, slow, relaxing dinner.

With a name like Martini House, you might think you're coming to a hip and trendy urban restaurant, but in reality the restaurant is named after the original owner, Walter Martini. This is an old school sort of place, a "fancy restaurant" that's a bit of a throwback to the 80's. While I love the outside seating, I find the main dining room to be in a bit of a need of updating, but you can't argue once the food starts arriving. They focus a lot of the menu on mushrooms, so start with the incredible Cream of Mushroom soup ($11)- you won't be disappointed. For dinner entrees, $42 gets you "Steak and Eggs", a gourmet take that has little resemblance to the breakfast classic. It's a tenderloin with a creamy soft centered egg, ravioli, mushrooms, pearl onions, bacon lardons, and a rich cab glaze. Expensive, yes, but worth it. For a more adventurous dining experience, there are a couple of prixe fixe menus to consider, such as the mushroom tasting four course dinner for $60 ($95 with wine pairing). This is a Michelin star restaurant, and the food lives up to that rating. Dress up for dinner.

But I must be honest, I like Martini House best for lunch when I can get a Kobe beef burger topped with Gruyère cheese, wine stewed onions and onion rings. I save this experience for a cold rainy day and go downstairs to the ultra casual pub-like bar. Locals have long loved this downstairs area and it ranks near the top of their recommendations. It's definitely not fancy there, in fact it reminds me of a cozy old bar I used to go to back in my college days. I grab a seat near the fireplace, get a glass of cab, and man, this is living!

MARTINI HOUSE
1245 Spring Street, St. Helena
707.963.2233

6. TRA VIGNE

A Napa classic! WALLY SAYS "Feels like you just entered a Tuscan Village!"

You know this guy - he's Michael Chiarello of Food TV fame, the guy who plans his simple meals for friends days in advance to "save" time, a concept my wife and I argue about every time his show comes on. At one time this was his restaurant, rightfully earning a spot next to some of the top culinary experiences in Napa. Well, Michael is gone, leaving some to say that it's not as good as it used to be. Maybe it is, maybe it's not, but the bottom line is that this is still a fine restaurant and a wonderful Napa dining experience.

Let's start with the setting - when I say it's like a Tuscan Village, I mean it. You enter into a courtyard with mulberry trees and wrought iron tables. It looks, well, like a set off of Napa-Style, one of Michael's TV shows. It's a cross between Napa and Italy, so quaint and romantic that you'll forget that busy Highway 29 is right on the other side of the wall. Step inside the stone building and there's high vaulted ceilings in the warm and inviting main dining room, casual and relaxed yet still elegant enough for a night out. For the romantics out there, there's also a private table for 2 in the garden, perfect for popping the question or just celebrating in privacy (call ahead to reserve). In fact, it's the setting that makes Tra Vigne so inviting and compelling and keeps locals and visitors coming back again and again.

Start with the housemade Mozzarella cheese, made at the moment you ordered it. If you haven't had truly fresh mozzarella, give this a go and you might never go back. The pastas are inventive and complex, including one with squid ink and another with braised rabbit ragu. No, this isn't the Spaghetti Factory so don't be looking for the Spaghetti and Meatballs. Instead, check out the wood roasted Dungeness Crab, or Braised Short Ribs with Polenta - these are the types of entrees you can expect. Prices are reasonable for a restaurant of this caliber with entrees under $30, pastas under $20, and appetizers and salads under $10. You can even make an inexpensive meal out of the appetizers by ordering a salad and pizza to share. Add a couple glasses of wine and sit back on the patio after a hard day of winetasting for a satisfying meal and wonderful experience. The food is good, very good, but it's really the combination of food with setting that makes Tra Vigne such a winning combination. With classic Italian hospitality and setting, a great menu of both classics and the inventive and views of the vineyards from the friendly patio, it's a Napa experience that deserves to be on your list.

TRA VIGNE
1050 Charter Oak, St. Helena
707.963.4444

7. RUTHERFORD'S GRILL

One of the most popular eateries in Napa with both tourists and locals alike! WALLY SAYS "I eat here on every trip to Napa"

Let's get one thing out of the way right now. Yes, I know that Rutherford's Grill is a chain restaurant that's known as Houston's in other areas. But this is no Chili's, trust me. The locals fought this place when it was first proposed, but once it opened it ironically became a local favorite. Maybe it's the smell of the wood burning grill, maybe it's the eclectic menu, maybe it's just the air of excitement when you walk in, but this casual eatery seems as authentic as Mustards and is a perfect place to end a day of winetasting. Even the most hardened cynic will crumble the second the grilled smoky artichoke arrives with the perfectly tangy dipping sauce. Oh yeah, it's good.

While most people opt for the wonderful outside patio or the inside family friendly booths, Local Wally always heads straight for the bar. The "view" is great for people watching, the two women bartenders fun and friendly, and I like it when they place the little white tablecloth in front of me -I don't know why, but I just do. Their wine menu has plenty of Napa choices, so I always try to pick one from a winery that I haven't visited yet. If I like it, I put it on my agenda to find the winery the next day. And here's a tip - there's no corkage fee if you bring your own bottle, so grab that bottle you bought today that you were going to save for a special occasion and crack it open tonight!

So let's talk about the food. I was serious when I said I stop here on every trip, so I've pretty much tasted everything on the menu and while everything is darn good, there are a few favorites that stand out. Besides the obligatory grilled artichoke, the other signature side dish is their cornbread served in a skillet. If you like cornbread, this is the way Grandma used to make it back on the farm. It's hot out of the oven and big enough to share for four. The burgers and sandwiches are good, but I really like both the pork chop, cooked over applewood with a nice but not overpowering smoke taste, and the sliced lamb, cooked slow over the wood fired rotisserie. A lot of people love, I mean really love, their babyback pork ribs. They're literally fall off the bone tender. I prefer my ribs to have a bit more "bite" so I won't say they're the best ever, but they definitely do the trick when I want ribs in Napa. Other standouts include the Steak and Enchilada plate, nice slices of juicy aged Angus tenderloin with an excellent cheese enchilada on the side - sounds weird, but it works - and the Roasted Prime Rib is perfect with a nice glass of cab.

It's always going to be busy, it's loud and noisy, you'll probably have an insane wait, but it's all going to be worth it. Rutherford's Grill is probably the best casual dining spot in Napa. Wear your favorite pair of jeans and if you see an open seat at the bar, push your way through the crowds and grab it! You'll be thanking Local Wally that you did.

RUTHERFORD GRILL
1180 Rutherford Road, Rutherford
707.963.1792

8. TAYLOR'S AUTOMATIC REFRESHER

An old drive-in burger joint meets Napa cuisine! WALLY SAYS "Holy cow, is that the line?"

You came all the way to Napa to stand in a line to get a burger that you eat in back on a picnic table? Yes, when that burger joint is Taylor's Automatic Refresher, one of the greatest burger stops in the world. Let me cut right to the chase so you know what I'm talking about - Ahi Burger, served RARE with ginger wasabi mayo & asian slaw on a toasted egg bun. Or a Western Bacon Blue Ring, a burger topped with an onion ring with crumbled blue cheese piled in the center and bacon, pickles, red onion & BBQ sauce. Old fashioned root beer floats or thick milk shakes made with real ice cream, just like they made them in the grandpa's days. Or beer and wine. Saywhat? Hey, you're in Napa, what did you expect?

The original Taylor's opened in 1949, back when hamburger stands dotted the landscapes and there was nothing gourmet about a burger. For less than a quarter you could get yourself a burger. Add some fries and a Coke and you were set to go. By 1999, the formula had all but run out of steam. Enter Joel and Duncan Gott, two brothers with wine and restaurant experience who knew the time was right to update and upscale the drive-in. They kept the welcoming facade, the walk up windows, the picnic tables, but kicked up the quality to near gourmet levels and added updated menu items. Familiar items are done to perfection - killer french fries, light and crispy with a nice crunch, onion rings better than anything you can get at the state fair, great sweet potato fries, juicy 1/3 pound burgers that still have some pink in the middle, you get the idea. Or stretch out a bit and try some of the more creative bites like the fish and chips done up with mahi mahi, or the wonderful patty melt - just like Woolworth's lunch counter only a million times better. It's nostalgic and strangely current at the same time.

With so many dining choices in Napa that you might be forgiven if you pass by Taylor's on your first trip and dine at one of the many top notch eateries. But Taylor's is essential Napa dining. OK, it might be going too far to suggest that dining at Taylor's could be as rewarding as a night at The French Laundry, but more than a few visitors and food critics have left Napa claiming that Taylor's was their favorite meal. For me, a trip to Napa isn't complete without a stop at Taylor's.

TAYLOR'S AUTOMATIC REFRESHER
933 Main Street, St. Helena
707.963.3486 (no reservations accepted - come on, it's a drive-in!)
Second location in Downtown Napa at 644 First Street