Napa Tourist Guide

1. DOMAINE CHANDON

A beautiful setting, a trendy winery, serene and picturesque! WALLY SAYS "What a way to start your winetasting day! "

There's only one way to start a trip to Napa and that's with a stop at Domaine Chandon. Located off the road next to Yountville, you'll be stunned by the overall beauty of the setting as you approach. A drive through the vineyards gets you in gear, then the mature trees and lush landscaping let you know you've arrived. Look for the "mushroom garden" as you cross over the pond, and enter the modern building for your first taste of Napa. The building itself features a wall of sliding doors that open up into the greenery and feature a stunning view of the rolling hills. It really is one of the best winery settings in Napa.

Domaine Chandon is all about sparking wines (not "champagne", as that term is reserved for the sparkling wines from Champagne, France). Oh sure, they have regular wines ("still wines") as well, but it's all about the bubbly when you stop here. You get the choice of a few different flights of tastings, and if you are traveling with someone make sure you each get something different so you can sample them all. No doubt about it, I start every trip to Napa at Domaine Chandon, and you should too. Not only is it one of the most beautiful wineries, but it's far less crowded in the morning and sets the tone for your relaxing vacation. And here's a tip - Domaine Chandon is also open later than most wineries, making it an ideal last stop of the day should you want to savor the afternoon rays with a bit of sparkle before heading back to the hotel. Check for specials like oysters and sparkling wine in the afternoons, or pastries and berries in the morning to go with the bubbly.

You'll also find étoile restaurant here, one of the original fine dining Napa experiences, and, I'm embarrassed to say, the restaurant where The Real Housewives of the OC dined (bet they're not invited back!). If you saw that episode, first don't admit it, and second don't worry, it's one of the finer dining experiences in Napa so don't shy away just because the housewives didn't get it.

LOCAL WALLY HOT WINE CLUB TIP: At $16 per tasting, you're already down $32 for two. But if you liked what you sipped, consider joining their club before you pay and get your tastings for free and get a 20% discount if you buy anything to take home. Accept one shipment (approximately $75) and you are done with your commitment - though if you're like me you're going to love getting sparkling wine in the mail! Wine club members also get a free glass of bubbly when they arrive, plus a private sipping area just for members, perfect for those busy Summer days. There are a lot of wine clubs in Napa but I love getting sparkling wine in the mail. Unlike getting a bottle of red that gets put away a bottle of sparkling goes right into the ice and rarely makes it past 24 hours in my house!

DOMAINE CHANDON
1 California Drive, Yountville
707. 944.2280

2. ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY

An iconic Napa winery! WALLY SAYS "Never been? Then make this your next stop!"

A lot of wine "experts" back home might tell you to skip Mondavi. It's too touristy, too obvious, and too crowded. And besides, they'll tell you as they sip their Woodbridge, the wine's just not that good. That would be a good time to use those interpersonal skills your mom taught you and say "thank you for your tip" and turn back to Local Wally for the real scoop. Because unlike the wine snobs, I LIKE Mondavi and if you have never been, I think you're going to like it as well.

A quick bit of history - the Mon-day-vi (that's right) family wine owns Charles Krug, Napa's first winery, but a fight with brother Peter got Robert fired in the mid-'60's. Robert was the feistier of the two and didn't take this laying down - no, instead he opened his own winery, changed the pronunciation of his last name to Mon-dah-vi, and arguably changed the course of Napa by making fine wines that were among some of the best in the world. Over time the winery added less expensive wines like Woodbridge or Coastal, thus watering down their image as a fine wine producer, but that doesn't take away from the experience you'll have when you visit one of the iconic wineries in Napa.

Let's start with the tours. If you have never been on a winery tour, Mondavi offers a basic "how wine is made tour" every hour ($25). You'll see the process from grape to finished wine, plus enjoy a private tasting at the end. There are no stupid questions on this type of tour, so go ahead and ask if white wines come from white grapes and if red wines come from red. For more experienced visitors, a guided tasting tour ($15, Wednesday through Sunday at 10 AM) will walk you through your tasting, teaching you how to swirl your glass and what to look for in a good wine. The final tour of the day is an hour long tasting of their premier and reserve wines ($45). Hosted everyday at 4:30 except on Sundays, this is an excellent way to end your day.

So why do people sometimes shrug off Mondavi if it has so much good to offer? I mean, the retail store is done tastefully and the cozy fireplace is just the place on a cool Fall day. The outdoor area begs you to sit outside to relax with a glass on a warm Summer day. The art, the architecture, the ambiance, all first rate. I think Mondavi gets a bum rap from experienced visitors because unlike a smaller winery where the staff loves their wines to the point of waxing poetically about it, Mondavi's pour staff at times comes off as indifferent, as sincere as a Disneyland employee on a busy day. But don't let that stop you from visiting, and ignore all the comments from elitists that it's "too commercial". Just avoid going when it's busy and you'll see why it's earned a place on my list of favorite wineries.

During the Summer, Mondavi hosts a series of outdoor concerts not to be missed. This is one of the ultimate Napa experiences, sipping wine outdoors at the beautiful mission styled winery while listening to live music. Really, it doesn't get much better than that.

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY
Highway 29, Oakville
888.766.6328

3. OPUS ONE

Your first taste of expensive wine... Maybe.... WALLY SAYS "Put down the beef jerky and Big Gulp, we're going upscale!"

I don't get intimidated much these days. But something about Opus One brings back all of my insecurities, like walking into the Ritz Carlton dressed in flip flops and a wife beater shirt. Rising out of the ground like some sort of ancient monument to a futuristic God, Opus One has always been the first one to tell you that their wines are special - and was the first to have the guts to price it high, way high, to prove the point. Wine lovers will debate whether Opus One deserves the high praise or if it's just hype, but no one can deny that Opus One, a joint venture of Robert Mondavi and Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, carries out their vision as being highly selective of their grapes, production, and final product. No doubt about it, this is the good stuff.

Step inside and it's hushed silence. No party going on here, that's for sure. The cool receptionist shoots an icy glare your way (damn, did I spill coffee on my cargo shorts?) and tells you it's $25 to $35 for one 4 oz. pour and then awaits your response - of course, you knew to make a reservation, right? I'm telling you this in advance so you don't do what I did and give a Homer Simpson "D'OH!" that just didn't go over as well as I thought. At this point you have one of two options - to go forward to taste one of the premier wines made in Napa, or ask where the restrooms are and then hightail it out of there. And depending on who you are, both are excellent choices. To the wine lover who can appreciate a $200 bottle of wine, keep on trucking to the upstairs terrace for a glorious view of the valley, knowing you are somewhere that only the elite have visited. To all others, stash the cash and save it for lunch - a burger and fries at Taylor's Refresher sounds purty good! But whatever you do, do not miss Opus One - even if you don't taste, it's worth it just to see the building. And yes, nice restrooms!

OPUS ONE
7900 St. Helena Highway, Oakville
707.944.9442

4. DIAMOND OAKS

Get off the main road a bit for this hidden winery! WALLY SAYS "Best Little Known Picnic Spot!"

Most people know to stop at Oakville Grocery for a baguette and some cheese - that's not much of a secret. But where to eat your snack in the area is. Don't be caught eating in your car when you are so close to one of Napa's best - and least known - picnic spots. Just hop off Highway 29 and cruise up Oakville Grade and you'll move away from the tourists and crowds. The scenic road becomes quiet and the sound of church bells from the nearby monastery fills the air. Keep going about a mile and you'll find Diamond Oaks, a great little winery with a nice wines and an even nicer picnic area.

With a stunning view of the valley, Diamond Oaks has a number of picnic tables shaded by mature oaks for your use. The only rule is that you must buy a bottle of wine to enjoy while you are there. But that's not much to ask when they have a $28 bottle of Chardonnay, a nice drinkable wine that goes well with a sunny day, as well as an equally affordable Pinot Noir. Go to their site and reserve your picnic table before you go - for free! Not too shabby, and a great idea if you are traveling with a small group and want to enjoy a picnic without the hassle of fighting for a table. Forget the picnic zoo at V. Satuii (the often recommended picnic spot that's busier than Woodstock on a Summer day) and come up the hill instead. You'll be glad you did.

As for tasting, ten bucks gets you four tastes poured by a knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff and the wine is surprisingly good. The tasting room is big and open, the crowds manageable due to their location away from the highway. Even if you don't want to picnic, Diamond Oaks is a great place to stop and just take in the scenery with a glass of wine.

LOCAL WALLY TIP: So I seriously love this place but at certain times of the year the yellowjackets, aka stinging wasp bugs who hate you, can get out of hand. Wine drinkers need not worry, but pull out anything edible and expect a hundred angry flying bugs to come check you out. If you pull up and see what looks like people break dancing in the dirt, turn around and head back down the hill. Hmmm, Alpha Omega might be a great alternative. Don't get me wrong, this is still one of the best spots in Napa for a picnic. Just call ahead to make sure the wasps are under control.

DIAMOND OAKS WINERY
1595 Oakville Grade, Oakville
707.948.3010

5. CAKEBREAD CELLARS

Nice and casual "tour" and small group tastings makes this one a winner! WALLY SAYS "It's one of my favorite stops because they make everyone feel so welcome - and you keep the glass! "

Unlike some wineries that scream for attention like a spoiled baby, Cakebread Cellars is understated elegance. A rural mailbox with "CAKEBREAD" printed on it is the only indicator that you're in the right place - no giant facades, no giant stone columns, no valet parking lot attendant. Pay attention or you might drive right past it. While other wineries are packed to the gills on a nice Summer day, Cakebread is relaxed and the pace much slower. This is due in part to their reservation system - no jockeying for a place at the bar to get a sip. Instead, at your reserved time they take you in small groups to do a short tour and history of the winery, then you taste in the backroom. (And yes, do make a reservation in advance). It's nice, it's relaxed, and though their wines are premium, there's no winery snobbery here.

Cakebread started as a small family business, and it stays true to its roots to this day. You can tell that everyone who works there loves their job and their wines. This is the way Napa winetasting is supposed to be - a fun yet educational experience given by people passionate about their wines and winery. Come in Fall and you'll get to taste some of the grapes off the vines, and make sure you get some of their free recipes with wine pairing suggestions. $10 gets you a tasting and a free Cakebread logo'd glass, a great souvenir to show off your good taste when you get home. Oh, and let's not forget about the wines. Cakebread makes some of the finest wines in Napa, including a wonderful Chardonnay that goes down with a silky, slightly buttery finish. In fact, all of the wines here are exceptional and accessible. Wine lovers gush over Cakebread but you don't have to be a wine connoisseur to enjoy it.

The basic tour included with every tasting takes you into the back room with the barrels where you'll have an intimate wine experience with approximately a dozen people. On a nice Summer day you might head out to the outdoor wine bar to sip some more. It's friendly, it's lowkey, and it's high quality. You can even stay a bit longer and grab a seat on the outdoor patio to enjoy the ambiance (and another chardonnay, please). After fighting the big crowds at the big wineries, it's so nice coming to Cakebread for a bit of personal attention.

There's plenty of other options other than the basic winetasting when you call for your reservation, including a longer tour and tasting, wine and food pairing, and a highly educational (and fun) sensory evaluation experience. The wine club is a bit expensive, so make sure you can afford it before you join. Members get half off the tour prices (except for the basic tasting tour) as well as some VIP treatment. No matter which tour you pick, it will be pretty hard not to enjoy a visit to Cakebread. I put it near the top of my favorite Napa winetasting experiences. Whether you're a first timer to Napa or a long time visitor, make sure you stop in at Cakebread.

CAKEBREAD CELLARS
8300 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford
(Remember, look for the mailbox or you'll miss it!)
800.588.0298 (Reservations Required)

6. ST. SUPERY WINERY

Go upstairs for a self guided tour and "smell-0-vision"! WALLY SAYS "Great hospitality combined with great wines makes this a winner!"

Don't let the outside facade scare you. I know it looks more like a corporate office in a business park than a romantic winery, but once inside St. Supery does everything so well that it's a Local Wally favorite. Let's start with the prices, which have been getting way out of hand at some wineries. Like many wineries, $10 gets you 4 tastings - but if you're nice (I mean really nice) you'll also get a lifetime tasting card for the asking so you can come back again and again and get free tastings. Compare that with some wineries now charging $15, or even $20 for tastings. And unlike some wine pourer's who provide teaspoon sized sips, St. Supery is downright generous, often pouring wines off the main list for no additional charge. And nice? Heck yeah, these guys are friendly and personable. They love their wines, and it shows. Try some of their special blends, like the Elu, or my all time favorite wine there, Cabernet Franc. I love that wine!

Upstairs is where you'll find the self guided tour, an art exhibit, some wine education, and my favorite, the "Smell-o-Vision". You get to test your senses as you read about the wines flavors, then smell them by pushing a lever to release a small whiff of scent. Smell the apples in the Chardonnay? Or the chocolate in a Cab? It's fun, and very educational. Soon you'll be one of those people who say things like "a bit of delightful grassiness in the finish" or "wonderfully fresh fruits of apples and pears dancing on my palate!" Ahh, a little knowledge can be so dangerous!

Join their club and get private tastings and tours. I like how they put the members name on the Welcome board in the lobby, and I really like the behind the scenes tour with barrel tasting where they show you how to mix various reds to make a blend. In fact, members can even participate in an event where they get to make their own blend that gets bottled for members only. Nice touch! With one of the better wine clubs, the free art exhibit and tour, the friendly staff, and of course, delicious wines, it's hard to miss at St. Supery.

ST. SUPERY WINERY
8440 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford
707.963.4507

7. RUBICON ESTATE (Niebaum-Coppola)

Literally "Napa meets Hollywood" WALLY SAYS "But is it a tourist trap? Read on to find out!"

Rubicon has a long, dramatic history. Before it was Rubicon Estate, before Coppola, it was Inglenook Winery. My experience with Inglenook started back in the 70's. I was in college and we drank a lot of Inglenook Navalle wine. We didn't know that Inglenook once made fine wines, and in reality we didn't care - Inglenook was cheap, tasted best on ice, and was available at the corner 7/11. It was around this time that I made my first trek to Napa to see where this magical nectar of $3.99 jug wine was made. Imagine my surprise when I pulled up to the beautiful estate, looking more like a European chateau than a jug wine factory. An old world stone building that reeked of wealth and history - they made my favorite cheap wine? Whassup with that?

It's made here...

and tasted here...

you're going to love this one!

After a bit of research I learned that Inglenook was founded by a wealthy and worldly sea captain named Gustave Niebaum in 1879. Niebaum had a passion for making fine wines, and ironically, not in large quantities. In a way, it was an obsessive hobby for him, not a money making business. He died in 1908, but the vision of creating "no compromise" wines was carried on by his widow Susan, and then his great nephew, John Daniel Jr. Staying the course set by Niebaum, by the 1940's Inglenook was known for making some of the finest wines in the valley. But in 1964, the unthinkable happened - John Daniel Jr., now in his 50's and, incredibly, married to a teetotaler woman who allegedly disliked the winery, sold Inglenook to United Vintners, the company known best for producing the bulk wine Italian Swiss Colony. Ninety acres and the Inglenook chateau were sold for $1.2 million in 1964.

The promise to continue on with the traditions started by Captain Niebaum and perfected by Daniel's were quickly forgotten, replaced with a cheap jug wine made in Central California. By 1969, the Inglenook identity of fine wines was all but forgotten and the name and property were sold for $100 million to Heublein, the spirits company best know for making Smirnoff. To them, Inglenook was just a brand name. Out with the fine wines, in with the jugs. Inglenook was sold two more times and by 1989 the Napa winery famous for it's prized vines no longer made any wine at its Napa winery.

As fate would have it, in 1975 Francis Ford Coppola, looking for a small house to buy in Napa, was brought to the original Niebaum home and surrounding vineyards, now up for sale for $2.5 million dollars. Flush with profits from his movie Godfather II, he bought the property with the dream of returning Inglenook to its original glory. He later purchased the remaining property from Heublein, thus once again reuniting the two properties.

The Inglenook property was set for a rebound, but not without a few rocky roads ahead. Coppola, understanding the marketability of his movie background, transformed part of the winery into a movie museum. And soon, the crowds came to Napa's Hollywood to see old scripts and costumes, Tucker's car, and old movie paraphernalia. The tourists came like locusts, swarming the grand old estate and snapping pictures like the paparazzi at a Britney Spears wedding. In a way, Coppola's efforts to save Inglenook seemed almost as misguided as Heublein's quest to turn it into a jug wine. But luckily, Coppola wised up.

Enter the valet parkers and the $25 fee. This cleared the pool faster than Rosie O'Donnel in a bikini. According to Coppola's staff, this was partially done for crowd control - and it worked. Lookie-loo's more interested in the gift shop than the wine took Coppola off their A-list and the crowds thinned down to a more reasonable level. The Niebaum-Coppola name was retired, replaced with simply Rubicon, a throwback to the previous era and a commitment from Coppola to return the wines to its former glory. The movie paraphernalia was thinned down (The Godfather is not happy), turning the focus back on the fine wine legacy of Niebaum and Daniels. And Coppola has successfully turned the estate around. The Inglenook name was not part of the purchase price, but the Inglenook legacy lives on under the Rubicon label.

Vintage slides...

Tucker's car....

And old projectors

As for the winery, there is plenty to see and do here. Don't be turned off by the price - there are plenty of other wineries starting to charge $20 just for a tasting. And a stop at Rubicon is much more than a tasting - it's like a ticket back in time. You'll feel like you are somewhere in Europe with the Old World architecture inside the famous chateau. Outside, the gravel pathways lined with mature oaks, the sound of the large water fountain splashing in the background, the bistro tables where you can relax with a good glass of wine, it's time to sit back and relax and appreciate the sheer beauty of this place.

The basic tasting fee gets you full access to the grounds and chateau. You'll easily spend an hour here just looking at the various displays and the beautiful gift shop. Upstairs is a tasteful collection of Coppola's vast collection of film history, from early projectors and slides to the original Tucker car. OK, some might say that this has very little to do with wine but it's fascinating nonetheless and a legitimate new chapter in Napa history. Loosen up, dude, you're on vacation!

Old Inglenook bottles ...

Old movies ....

And a stunning setting

Those looking for a more wine-centric experience should look into the tours. The basic tour is included in the $25 guest fee. It's a short 30 minute affair, taking you outside to the vines for a bit of wine education, a bit of history, and then some winetasting. Those looking for a bit more wine education can choose from a variety of tours, from the Vinifera Journey ($20)where you'll get a deeper appreciation of the vines and the land, to the Sensory Exploration tour ($35), focused on the flavors and aromas of their various wines. For true wine lovers, don't miss The Elevage Experience ($50). This tour takes you from the vines to the caves where you'll taste premium wines straight from the barrels. Sure, maybe you've barrel-tasted before, but have you ever tasted high end Rubicon CASK Cabernet from different barrels made from different woods to experience the difference the barrel makes? Even experienced wine connoisseurs will walk away with a huge smile, knowing they just had a truly unique experience.

Inglenook is one of the most important wineries in Napa, and Rubicon has successfully taken what was once broken beyond repair and returned it to its original glory. If you've never been - or if it's been a while - you owe it to yourself to make Rubicon an essential stop on your Napa vacation.

RUBICON ESTATE (Coppola Winery)
1991 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford
800.RUBICON

8. BEAULIEU VINEYARDS

Located next to Rutherford Grill makes this a convenient stop. WALLY SAYS "Bo-Lew, Bo-Lew - come on, say it with me"

There's not a giant plasma screen in sight. No picnic grounds with hoards of people fighting for a spot. Heck, there's not even a stitch of modern art to be seen. Yes, you've come to Beaulieu Vineyards, one of Napa's oldest wineries and once the hippest winery of the Napa elite. A pleasant and modern tasting room done up in warm woods, Beaulieu avoids the gimmicky trends of some of the newer wineries and instead focuses on the wine, plain and simple.

The story goes that Georges de Latour bought the winery for his wife in 1900 ("Happy birthday, honey!"), who exclaims "“Quel Beaulieu!” thus their name. But soon a vine killing disease takes over Napa and nearly wipes out all the vines. Georges solves the problem by traveling to France and bringing back millions of resistant rootstock, thus saving the day - what a guy! As Napa wineries go, Beaulieu is one of the oldest, one of the most significant for putting Napa wines on the map. We owe a lot to Beaulieu, and you owe it to yourself to stop in and taste.

But Wally, isn't Beaulieu the winery that makes that inexpensive wine I get at Longs Drugs?

OK smarty pants, it's true that Beaulieu makes the low-end BV Coastal, a good if unexceptional wine. But you just might change your mind on who they really are after a visit. I like Beaulieu for a lot of reasons, but maybe because it's so easy to stop in and visit. They start you with a glass the instant you walk in (like that) and the actual tastings start at a very reasonable $5 (really like that). You can even do "horizontal tastings" where you taste one specific wine (say, a cab) produced over various years. For $25 you're taken to the reserve room for a taste of some truly spectacular wines that will remind that Beaulieu can still produce one of the finest wines in Napa. Beaulieu isn't my favorite winery, but it's a good stop, especially if you happen to already be next door at Rutherford Grill.

BEAULIEU VINEYARDS
1960 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford
800.264.6918 x5235

9. GRGICH HILLS

Friendly, unpretentious winery! WALLY SAYS "Barrel tastings, wine stomping, come on, this place rocks!"

I hope this is right, but "Grcich" is pronounced "Ger Gitch" - I think. Close enough, anyway. The winery is old school, a wooden building covered with ivy with a dark room filled with wine barrels. Opened 30 years ago, little has changed. At first you might be inclined to skip Grgich - it doesn't have the sex appeal of some of the newer hip wineries or the older iconic big names. But it does offer you more wine experience than most, including barrel tastings every Friday from 2 to 4. Say that again? Right, normal everyday Joe's like you and I get to sample their wines straight from the barrel for no additional cost. This type of experience is usually reserved for Wine Club members at other wineries, so this is pretty cool that everyone gets a go. On one visit we spoke with the one of the winemakers who gave us his take on the wine that he made - a great experience.

But wait, there's more! Grgich offers more "over the top" wine experience with their wine stomp during the Fall crush season (usually September through October). Take off those shoes and start making some wine. And again, unlike some wineries that charge you big bucks to experience this, it's another free activity at Grgich. Just call ahead at 707-963-2784 to make sure they are crushing. Come on, you know you've wanted to do this ever since you say Lucy stomp grapes during an I Love Lucy episode! This is your chance! Seize the moment!

You just can't have a bad experience at Grgich. With their excellent wines, knowledgeable and super friendly staff, and a down home ambiance, Grgich is one of the top stops in Napa and should be on your list of top wineries to try. Besides, you have to love a winery that has roots in the the chardonnay that beat the French in the legendary Paris Tastings in 1976 (often called the Judgment of Paris). Yes, it was Mike Grgich, then making wines for Chateau Montelena, who created the award winning chardonnay. It's not fancy, but it packs a lot of wine experience into a short visit.

GRGICH HILLS
1829 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford
800.532.3057

10. PROVENANCE VINEYARDS

Look for the big red barn-looking building and get in there! WALLY SAYS "Hey, what' s with those floors?"

Usually after tasting at a few wineries my car is a bit like an iPOD, set to random play and stopping indiscriminately at whatever winery catches my eye. Today the big red barn warehouse looking structure strikes a chord and I slam on the brakes (apologies to minivan behind me) and pull into the lot. The building itself is located far off the main highway, making it a nice respite on a busy Summer day. There's an expansive grassy area in front, this time with a guy playing with his dog who turns out to be the winemaker. I like this place already. Stepping inside the spacious and tasteful tasting room, the first thing you'll notice are the beautiful oak floors made from the wine barrels. What's that again? You heard me, wine barrels! Look closely and you'll see their name burned into the wood. Cool. Very cool.

The large tasting room gives you a bit of elbow room. Pony up to the horseshow shaped bar to get a taste in this modern, yet warm and open setting. It's not as crazy frenetic as the big corporate wineries, not as cramped packed as the smaller boutiques, just a nice and relaxed stop. This is a good winery to stop and slow down a bit, enjoy your tastings, and chat a bit with the friendly servers. And yes, the wine is quite good -try the port, one of my favorites. And the merlot? Ummm, very nice!

PROVENANCE VINEYARDS
1695 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford
707.968.3633

11. ALPHA OMEGA WINERY

One of Napa's newest wineries rises in 2008! WALLY SAYS "Poised for greatness"

On a recent trip to Napa in the Spring of 2008 I spied a sign on the road that said "New Winery" with an arrow that pointed down a lonely road. How could I resist? A short drive down a dusty road and I was surrounded by vineyards - and plenty of construction workers sawing and hammering on a old building. Like a cat who can't resist an empty box, I had to keep going to see what surprises lied ahead. Stepping inside the giant cold warehouse of a building, I was instantly greeted by a warm and friendly server who seemed downright delighted to see me. Susan was her name, and her hospitality seemed genuine and sincere. She showed me the plans for the building, the soon to be completed seating around the duck pond, the picnic area, and how the cold warehouse would be transformed into a beautiful tasting room. Very interesting... and then she started pouring wine and things got even better.

Wow. Susan's enthusiasm for the grape bubbled over like a shaken bottle of champagne. You can tell that this is her passion, not a job, as she poured taste after taste of her favorites. Perhaps breaking some rules, she dipped into the barrels and help educate us on the flavors and complexities. And then, with a glance over her shoulder to make sure it was OK, a trip to the back room where we sampled wines that would become their future vintages. What an unforgettable experience. Then like an old friend, we chatted about Napa and wines and food, comparing notes on our favorites and having a laugh or two. In the end it was possibly one of the best wine experience I have ever had - and I've been to a lot of wineries in my life. You see, winetasting is more than finding a nice wine - it's the entire experience, and no one understands this better than Susan at Alpha Omega.

When I returned to Napa in 2009 I made it a point to stop by to see the new tasting room - and to see if the hospitality was as good as I remembered. I'm happy to report that Susan is still there, friendliness intact, and the new tasting room is tasteful indeed. Contemporary but not overbearing, it's nice and relaxing - especially if you find yourself in one of the comfy upholstered chairs outside facing the giant sprouting fountain. This is the type of winery where the winemaker stops by to say hello and to talk about his wines. And while I openly admit that Local Wally is no wine expert, I do know what I like and man, was I impressed with their reds. The cab, the zin, ahhhhh, wow, good stuff.

A dog friendly winery, stop in for a taste and I'll bet you'll end up with a bottle to enjoy as you sit outside on the patio overlooking the vineyards. Alpha Omega, you're destined to be one of the top spots in Napa if what you've accomplished so far is any indication. Go there NOW before everyone else discovers one of my new Napa favorites, Alpha Omega.

ALPHA OMEGA WINERY
1155 Mee lane at Hwy 29, Rutherford
707.963.9999

12. HALL WINES

A smaller boutique winery filled with modern art! WALLY SAYS "Good pick for a picnic under the trees on a nice Summer day!"

Before I forget, Wally found this for you - it's a Two-fer-One tasting pass. Print it now before you forget and put it in your wallet. OK, now that we got that little detail out of the way, let me tell you about Hall. A small family run winery, Hall's signature is the modern art sculpture that greets you as you enter the winery. The red "ribbon" sculpture suggests free flowing reds, a free spirit, I don't know but it does set the tone. Inside, the winery has wonderfully creative freeform glass bulbs hanging from the ceiling that look like giant drops of red wine. It's a sight to see, guaranteed to make you wish you didn't quit art school for the degree in accounting. And what's that over there? Is that a photo booth? Wow, a free photo booth just like the one at the Fair only this one emails you your photo back home. How fun is that?

The whole Hall experience is about delighting the senses. OK, I don't know if I need to pick up a copy of Craig Hall's latest book, "Timing the Real Estate Market: The Secrets to Buying Low and Selling High" (but at least now I know the secret to owning a winery is to become really rich first). And I'm not sure about his wife, the Honorable Katheryn Hall, former Ambassador to Austria. I'm sure she's nice, but she's got that "I'm an Ambassador, what do you do?" look on her face. I say put all of that aside and enjoy the great wines, the friendly hospitality, and the fun creative setting. And if you've been carting around that baguette and cheese you got from Oakville Grocery in your backseat and wondering when you get to eat it, hat little bistro table under the shady trees looks like a good choice with a glass of Hall wine.

Don't forget the coupon!

HALL WINES
401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena
707.967.2626

13. BERINGER

The oldest continuously operating winery in Napa, nearly as famous for its beautiful structures as its wine! WALLY SAYS "It's an essential stop!"

In 1875, two German immigrants took $14,500 and bought 215 acres in Napa. A year later, they crushed their first grapes and Beringer Winery was born. In the coming years, they would build the stunning stone winery, the elegant Rhine House mansion where they lived, plant the elm trees that form the "tunnel of trees" that still stand on Highway 29, and hire the Chinese to dig the impressive wine caves. They also began to produce some impressive wines, and in 1934 became the first winery in Napa to offer public tours.

Fast forward to 2008 where you'll find tour books and websites calling Beringer a "tourist trap". Well, Wally could not disagree more with that. To me, a tourist trap is a place with no redeeming value, a place designed to part your tourist dollars with your wallet as fast as possible without giving you something in return. That certainly is not Beringer.

Starting with the landscaping, you'd be hard pressed to find a more beautiful setting. Amongst the mature trees and manicured lawns you'll find the unique Rhine House, an ornate Victorian that used to be the home of the Beringer's. You'll be slamming on the brakes to snap a photo of this over the top Victorian with its numerous gables and stained glass windows. You'll also find the historic Hudson House, the original farmhouse from the 1800's.

First time visitors might want to go on one of their many tours, from a basic introduction that focuses on the history of the winery to more elaborate tours featuring a visit to the wine caves to a food and wine pairing tour. Visiting Napa during the busy summer months? Get in on the tour action and get away from the crowds. Be aware that you won't find a working winery on any of the tours as that takes place across the street and is not open to the public.

If you just want to check out the winery and skip the tours, go straight up to the old Bottling Room, the beautiful historic stone building. A great setting to take in a bit of winery history with interesting photos of the past. But don't stop there. Make sure you hop over to that fancy Rhine House for a sip of their reserved wines. It's a bit more expensive at $25 per person, but you'll get to taste some of the wines that made Beringer famous in the first place.

Beringer falls into the same category as Mondavi and Coppola's Rubicon. It's an iconic winery, one that you need to read up a bit on to truly appreciate the history and significance of its place in Napa - and wine. If you've never been, it's an essential stop. Don't listen to those well meaning folks who try to turn you away. Just plan your day to arrive before the crowds and take your time to savor the rich history of this beautiful winery.

BERINGER VINEYARDS
2000 Main Street, St. Helena
707.967.4412

14. FRANK FAMILY

Off the beaten track on a side road off the highway is a little know winery that's getting a lot of attention! WALLY SAYS "Pssst, free tastings!"

Look, don't tell anyone that I found one of the last free tastings in Napa. I promised the winery that I wouldn't print it, but they didn't know that I had my fingers crossed behind my back (and also that I had already had about 3 glasses of wine when I made the promise). They also didn't know that you can't trust Wally when it comes to not telling tourists the best stops in Napa. I mean, there is NO WAY I couldn't tell you about the free tastings in the valley, especially when the wine is this good, right? So let's get beyond that and let's talk about Frank Family.

Finding new wineries to me is what makes a Napa adventure so much fun. Take a quick exit off the main highway on Larkmead Lane and you'll be driving on a country road that runs through the vineyards. Open that sunroof, put the top down (the cars, not your wife's), crank up the radio and take in the ambiance. The sunshine, the smell of the vines, does it get better than this? Yes, it does, because off to your right is a dirt road that leads you to Frank Family Vineyards, one of the best wine stops in Napa..

Known for the over-the-top personalities of their staff, Frank Family has gained a reputation for being the most fun winery where it's not unusual to see the pourer's finish a bottle of sparkling wine themselves, drinking straight from the bottle. Everybody is having fun - I mean, this is the place where girls jump behind the counter to get a snapshot of themselves sitting on the lap of the server. Try that at Opus One! So whose idea was it to create a fun a lively winetasting setting that's one of a kind in Napa? Maybe it's due to Rich Frank, once the Chairman of Disney Television and responsible for shows such as "Cheers", "Taxi", "Family Ties", and the movies "Aladdin" and "The Lion King". He's clearly a man with a sense of humor. Expect great wines poured by an enthusiastic and sometimes crazy staff. From sparkling wines to their excellent Chardonnay to their brilliant Reds, you'll be hard pressed to find a bad bottle here.

If you've visited before you might remember Frank Family as, well, the "crappiest winery in Napa", a description given by one of the servers. Looking like a dumpy house that fell off the back of a truck, the original tasting room at Frank Family rightfully earned that title. But a recent renovation moved the tasting room in a definitely not crappy Craftsman Bungalow, the original house on the property brought back to its original stunning glory. What hasn't changed is their delightfully fresh approach to winetasting and hospitality and making it an essential stop on any trip to Napa. Looking for a picnic spot? Frank Family has a great spot under the trees.

Now about those free tastings....Remember that wineries are in the business to sell wine so if you find something you like, buy it. Come on, you just saved at least $10 per person for your tastings, you've just sipped generous pours of great wine, so take a bottle home with you. Better yet, buy a bottle and head directly to Rutherford Grill where the is no corkage fee and have it with dinner tonight!

SEPT 2009 UDATE: All good things must come to an end and on my recent visit Frank Family started charging $10 for tastings on Fri, Sat and Sun and definitely lost some of their sense of humor. Maybe it was a bad day, or maybe I had my expectations set to high, but the jury is out as to whether Frank Family retains the "most fun" title. If you go, make sure you Email me and tell me how your experience was.

FRANK FAMILY VINEYARDS
1091 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga
800.574.9463

15. CASTELLO DI AMOROSA

A full scale, totally authentic castle on the hillside! WALLY SAYS "Feels more like Middle Earth than Napa!"

High up on a hill as you approach Calistoga is a sight you probably thought you would never see in Napa. You blink in disbelief, but when you open your eyes (watchout, oncoming traffic!) it's still there. Yes, it's a 107 room, 121,000 square foot, full size and to scale medieval Tuscan castle, looking more like something out of The Lord of the Rings than a winery. Castello di Amorosa was built by vintner Dario Sattui - yes, the same guy responsible for the incredibly popular V. Sattui's on Highway 29. I know, by now you have all sorts of red flags popping up. After all, V. Sattui's is darn near a tourist trap with the hoards of people fighting for a sip of wine inside and an even bigger hoard fighting for a picnic table (or parking space) outside. Because of this, I've always avoided V. Sattui's and I've always been hesitant to send a Local Wally traveler there. But trust me, you're going to want to visit the castle.

Handpainted Frescos...

Incredible wines...

and stunning architecture!

Construction started in the early 90's, taking 13 years to complete and costing Dario Sattui nearly every dime he had. Insisting on building an authentic castle, Sattui only used materials and techniques that would have been available in the Middle Ages. For example, bricks are held in place with a mixture of lime, sand and water - not cement. You might not notice that touch, but Sattui pulled out all stops to ensure that his castle was no Disneyland fake. Obsessed with perfection and authenticity, Satuii made still made regular treks to Europe to visit old castles, snapping pictures and studying the most minute details as he designed and built his own castle.

You'll find sprawling stone courtyards, five defensive guard towers with battlements, gargoyles, secret tunnels and even a dungeon fitted with real torture equipment, no detail was too small. The massive stone bricks were shipped over from Europe, many from the Hapsburg dynasty in Austria, and were hand-hewn using the same techniques employed in medevial times. Even the ironwork was all hand-forged over an open fire, the same way it was done 800 years ago, making it look as it it was hundreds of years old. Look around and you'll see different stones and different construction methods used side by side. This was done to suggest a castle that took hundreds of years to build with periods of war and different economic times - smooth rock and craftmanship construction was used during the good times, rough rock and rough construction after a war. Come on, who does that? The 1,000 pound doors even feature custom Italian nails, and check out the impressive Great Hall, a huge 70' by 30' room with 22' high ceilings decorated with authentic Frescos and - oh yeah - a 500 year old fireplace. There's nothing that looks out of place, save perhaps the cement floors that were required by code.

Cynics will make obvious comparisons to Las Vegas, but they're wrong - this is an authentic castle down to the last minute detail, not a drywalled replica with faux stone paintings. Can I say it again? It's the real deal. Those same cynics will also tell you that you will find better wines in a little boutique, but that would be missing the point. It's a darn castle, for God's sake, and they serve wine! Come one, leave those party pooper's behind and go have fun without them! Besides, the wine here is impressive. The La Castellena, a reserve "super Tuscan" blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, can only be described as deliciously well balanced, and the Reserve Cab with the hand dipped wax over the cork is worth the price of admission in itself, one of the best in Napa. Both the La Castellena and Reserve Cab are premium tastings so make sure at least one person in your party upgrades so you can get at least a sip of these delicious wines.

As for visiting, there are various tours of the castle, perfect for those wanting to check out the massive cellars or wander the labyrinths of walkways. The tours are mainly focused on the castle, not the winemaking, so don't expect a "how wine is made" sort of tour. Instead, you'll be treated to the story of what drove a winemaker into building this impressive structure, and a walk through the secret areas closed off to the casual visitor, and a trip into the wine caves amongst all the barrels. Take the tour and you'll be shown the story of love and lust on the hand painted Fresco walls, and you'll visit the torture chamber with a real Iron Maiden, the mummy-like enclosure that drives spikes into you as they close the doors. You'll find yourself whisked away to a different time as you walk through the dark stone corridors, quickly forgetting that this castle isn't hundreds of years old. Want to know how the knights (in their shiney armor) plotted their plans to overthrow the King without being heard (thus avoiding the dreaded "head being chopped off")? Go on the tour and you'll find out. You'll also taste in a private setting versus the crowded tasting room. That's nice - personal attention, nice pours, great conversation, it's a wonderful way to experience Napa and some of the best Napa wines.

The basic tour with premium tastings is a very reasonable $25 on weekdays, $30 on weekends, and reservations are required (707.967.6272). Add another $12 to upgrade for "reserve" tastings - highly recommended so you can get a taste of their best wines. As a nice bonus the tours tastings are not with the main "masses" of people in the general tasting room so you get plenty of attention (and maybe a few extra sips!) There's also specialty tours, like wine and food pairings, for the truly indulgent. Visitors short on time can pay $10 for a basic tasting, and yes, you'll also get access to the main section of the castle and you'll be able to poke your head in and out of some of the rooms. But I recommend you book the tour and spend a couple of hours discovering one of Napa's most interesting stops. The castle is impressive and a worthy backdrop to the fine wines made here. I guarantee you will not find a more unusual, more stimulating tour in Napa than what you'll find at Castello di Amorosa. An essential stop!

CASTELLO DI AMOROSA
4045 North St. Helena Hwy, Calistoga
707.942.8200