There's MUD Everywhere in Calistoga!
A the northern tip of Napa Valley is Calistoga, a laid back town with a bit of the Old West still lingering. Native Americans once lived here, attracted by the healing powers of the natural geothermal hot springs. By the mid-1800's, wealthy entrepreneur Sam Brannan bought up 2,000 acres with the dream of building a spa to rival those in Saratoga, New York. He named the area "Calistoga", a combination of the names "California" and "Saratoga". At the time, Calistoga was an isolated destination. Solution? Build a railroad. Better yet, get the government to build it with bond measures, which is exactly what Brannan did. But as successful as he was, his luck would soon run out. Like many men before and many men after, a bitter divorce and an affinity for alcohol led to his financial ruin. The man who held the title as California's first millionaire due to the gold rush died at age 70, a broken and penniless man.
Others fared better in Calistoga. In 1920 Calistoga Sparkling Mineral Water was born, first sold in a soda fountain and soon after bottled. Little did they know that 80 years later bottled water would be as ubiquitous as a Starbucks and cellphone. And today, it's still the hot therapeutic waters that bring many visitors to the area. There's Old Faithful, a rip roaring geyser (with a petting zoo to round out the experience), a petrified forest, and a pleasant downtown with a downhome cowboy vibe to it.
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At one time in the not so distant past, most lodging choices were pretty basic, resembling motor lodges versus spa resorts. Most of these options are still there, but there are also some newer choices that are definitely upscale. But no matter where you stay, you'll still find what attracted the first visitors to the area, namely MUD BATHS!
Wait a second, Wally - did you say Mud Baths?
That's right, if you've ever wanted to soak in a tub of mud (and who hasn't?), you've come to the right place. You'll find plenty of places for complete spa treatments, and some real bargains like a $55 mud and spa treatment at the older spas. Come on, be adventurous and do a mud bath! There's nothing better than winetasting all day then coming back for a mud bath and massage - well, there are some things better but I'll leave that for you to figure out.
As for the town of Calistoga, you'll be hard pressed to find one that's more charming and, well, authentically local. I mean, over there is Buster cooking up some tri-tips at Buster's BBQ, up and down the street are locals calling out to each other, there's unique shops and good restaurants, from easy on the budget local joints to foodie friendly trendy.
I listed my favorite Calistoga hotels below, but remember you can always go directly to the COMPLETE NAPA HOTEL GUIDE if you want to see all the hotel choices for Calistoga and Napa. This is also where you can find rates and availability and where you can make a reservation. If you can, book with me to keep Local Wally in business! Remember, I'm just a wine loving guy who wants to share my experiences, so thanks for helping me pay the bills to keep Local Wally's Guide to Napa up and running.
Your Napa Guide,
Local Wally
Best CALISTOGA Hotels
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1. CALISTOGA RANCH 
A sister resort of Auberge du Soleil, like a getaway in the mountains! WALLY SAYS "It's a cross between Auberge and Meadowood, a first class experience!"
Up in the mountains on The Silverado Trail, away from the town of Calistoga and crowds is a hidden gem of a resort, brought to you by the same folks who own Auberge du Soleil. But wait - is this a hotel or a gate guarded luxury home community? The winding roads lined with pine trees, the wood shingled houses, it certainly doesn't look like a resort or a hotel. In fact, it looks a bit like you made a wrong turn and ended up in a high end neighborhood in Marin County- you know, the type where people drive big cars and walk a tiny shitzus. But wait - is that a clubhouse? Is that a pool? Is that a valet? My goodness, you didn't make a wrong turn - this is the place! Wow!
The rooms, or "lodges" as they call them, are free standing buildings centered around a shared outdoor living area. With accommodations ranging from 600 to 2,400 square feet, it will feel more like a home than a room. The rooms feature luxurious and comfortable contemporary designs, stunning, like you just walked into a home design magazine. By "contemporary" I mean cozy and wonderful, not stainless steel cold and icky. Set in the pines, it feels like a true home away from home with plush outdoor furniture overlooking the rustic scenery. There's a spa, of course, twice-daily housekeeping, their own wine cave and private labeled wine, cooking demos, wine and cheese tasting's... you get the idea, this is the good life.
Dining is strictly a "members only" sort of affair - if you're not staying here don't think you can crash the party. In-room dining is always an option if you want to stay in and just enjoy the surroundings, but they also offer lakeside dining under the stars... how cool does that sound? And guess what? If you really like it here you can buy a piece of it with their "fractional ownership" program, otherwise known as a (gasp) timeshare. Mighty tempting for those who have the dough. And yes, you'll need plenty of dough just to stay here. With rooms costing about what some of us pay for our monthly mortgage, let's just say that you won't find Local Wally hanging out by the pool very often. But trust me - if I had the cash, this is the place I would spend it at.
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2. DR. WILKINSON'S HOT SPRINGS 
Got Mud?. WALLY SAYS "The doctor is IN"
You have to give credit where credit is due. While the high end resorts are starting to pop in on the outskirts of Calistoga, the old school spa that started it all remains for those who are looking for reasonable room rates - and a mud bath. Calistoga is famous for their mud bath spa treatments but it was the Doc who took the idea from the Wappo Indians and turned it into a thriving business over 55 years ago. It remains true to it's humble origins, a basic no-frills spa that eschews the fancy trendy fads of today's New Age spas and gets right down to business of giving you what they advertise - a soak in the mud, a whirlpool bath, and a massage - without the incense and pretense of their newer and more upscale competition.
The hotel itself looks a bit like my first college apartment building. Look, this isn't The Four Seasons. Heck, it's not even the Best Western! It's a throwback, old school motel - you'd almost expect to see Fred McMurray and Barbara Stanwyck walking down the hallways, speaking in hushed film noir tones about embezzling money as they plot to kill her husband. You've somehow went back in time to when a clean bed was the only expectation, and when a beer bottle opener tied to the fridge was pure luxury. The spa might remind you of your high school locker room, which scared me a little but turns out OK once you close your eyes and relax in the therapeutic session. Hey look, it's an adventure! There's something charming about this place - in an odd sort of way - that keeps bringing visitors back year after year. Some might call it kitsch or retro, but that would be wrong. It's honestly just a motel that has never changed in 55 years.
Budget minded travelers looking for a clean bed and safe location in the northern part of Napa need look no further. Add some spa treatments that cost a fraction of what you would pay in a big resort and you might have the biggest smile in Napa the next day. It's not for everyone, but if you fit the profile you are going to love this place!
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3. MOUNT VIEW HOTEL AND SPA 
A historical hotel on the main drag! WALLY SAYS "Don't worry, it's not a Grandma place, it's very cool inside!"
I'm always a bit frightened when I hear the description "historic hotel". Don't get me wrong, I'm all for preserving the great old hotels and their unique architecture. It's just that a little Victorian lace goes a long way. On the other hand, I absolutely hate it when someone takes over a great property and does a lame IKEA update on it, making it look like something out of an Austin Powers movie. Show a little respect for the old building! So I approached the Mount View Hotel and Spa with great apprehension. Would it be fit for a doily loving Grandma, or would it be 60's retro groovy? Luckily, it was neither. The Mount View Hotel and Spa succeeds in blending the old with the new in a way that is contemporary, trendy, and stylish - while still keeping the rates down to Earth.
The location is great - right in the historic downtown area. You'll love being able to walk up and down the street after winetasting, checking out the shops and the great restaurants - and you won't need to wander too far if you're hungry as top rated Jole restaurant is right on the property (mmm, what's that great smell?). There's regular guest rooms, suites and even cottages with their own private jacuzzi. A full featured spa is available to enhance your stay. You'll want to make sure you set some time aside to indulge as the services are top notch. There's also a pool, jacuzzi spa, complimentary continental breakfast in bad (nice, no hunting for coffee every morning!), even Aveda bath products in the room. This is nice, really nice.
In fact, I like the Mount View Hotel and Spa quite a bit. I've spent too much time in look-alike, boring corporate hotels. When I'm in Napa, I like something with a bit more character, a bit more unusual, and when I'm looking for a place in Calistoga the Mount View Hotel and Spa is always at the top of my list. Whether you're looking for a reasonable place to stay or a romantic weekend getaway, you can't go wrong with the Mount View Hotel and Spa.
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