Dreaming of a perfect day in Napa Valley, a glass of California Chardonnay, a romantic picnic under an oak tree? You're going to surprise your sweetheart with a weekend for two to wine country. You can almost taste the wine, there's the smell the grapes in the air... ahhhh, you can't wait to get to Napa Valley! You close your eyes and you're dreaming of a romantic getaway to Napa winecountry. Well wake up, Buckwheat, because if you don't do a bit of planning you're going to be drinking Two Buck Chuck in the Trader Joe's parking lot surrounded by tatoo'd bikers who think your old lady is hot!
Explore the country roads off the main highway
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Local Wally to the rescue!
Let Wally guide you to the Best of Napa Valley, from the Best Hotels to the Best Restaurants to the Best Wineries, all combined to give you an unforgettable experience. Unlike other guides that have advertisers to please or hidden agendas, Local Wally is all about giving you the most honest and unbiased information and reviews on Napa from a "locals" perspective. Google "Napa Valley" all you want and you won't find a better guide.
Looking for a discount Napa hotel? I visited every hotel worth visiting and put the reviews in the Best Napa Hotels Guide. I've also put together some handy agendas, including a budget Napa guide - Hey, just because you're in foreclosure doesn't mean you can't have a good time in Napa! If it's good, it's here. If it's not, well, it's not! |
1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT NAPA?
While every season has its own charms and attractions, first time visitors to Napa will probably enjoy Fall the best. Fall is crush time, the time when they pick the grapes and the winemaking process begins. It's when you will actually see the wineries in action (make sure you sign up for some tours) and there's something intoxicating about the smell of freshly picked grapes in the air. The hotels know this as well, so don't expect cheap rates this time of year. But the restaurants are a bit easier to get into than Suumer, and the crazy "par-tay" crowds have been replaced with more wine focused visitors. Going to Napa during Fall crush time reminds me of going on a elementary school field trip, only with alcohol! Mmmmmmm.
As fall turns to Winter, the leaves on the vines and trees start to change colors, the crowds thin and the hotel rates drop. Come in December and you might have the wineries all to yourself, but things start to pick up a bit in January through March, which is Mustard Festival time. Rows of bright yellow flowers pop between the dormant grape vines - incredible vibrant colors, looking better than Discovery Channel in HD. But note that this is the rainy season. Get a nice weekend and you'll be in heaven, but get a rainy one and you might find you and your spouse other spending more time in front of your fireplace in your room than a winery. Hmmm, still could be good if you're thinking what I'm thinking.
And then comes Spring, another excellent time to visit. With the weather warming up and the hotel rates still reasonable, it's hard to beat a trip to Napa this time of year. The vines will be starting to leaf out, fresh new green leaves on the trees, and fewer tourists.
Summer is undoubtedly the most popular season to visit, making it also the most crowded. In fact, it's so busy that most experienced Napa visitors try to avoid the Summer season. Expect long waits at the restaurants, crowded picnic spots, and happy hour crowds at the wineries. Of course, if you must come in Summer you can still make it a good trip - if you follow Local Wally's advice!
Local Wally shows you how to avoid the Summer madness!
2. WHERE SHOULD I STAY IN NAPA?
On my first trip to Napa, I picked a place in, well, Napa. It made sense to me at the time - that is, until I showed up and realized that I was staying in some far, far away neighborhood that had more to do with wino's than winetasting. I've since learned that "Napa Valley" is big - from downtown Napa to Calistoga is nearly 30 miles. With so many hotel options, you have to know the area a bit if you're going to make a good decision.
Good - Best Western Elm House |
Better - Rancho Caymus Inn |
Best - Meadowood |
You can find all of my top hotel pics in the Best Napa Hotels section, but here's a quick summary of the areas:
DOWNTOWN: Just like Mayberry, except with fancy restaurants and lots of wine bars! Cool and hip, but the furthest away from the wineries. There was a time when the only reason to stay here was the cheaper rates, but now downtown has become a true destination.
YOUNTVILLE: My favorite area for a hotel. Closer to the wineries, and you can walk to restaurants like The French Laundry and Bistro Jeanty, my favorite. Some cynics have called this area touristy, but hey, you are a tourist!
RUTHERFORD AND ST. HELENA: This is where you'll find lodging nestled right up the vineyards and wineries. You want five star resorts? You want hidden boutiques? Follow me to the best.
CALISTOGA: Way up at the top of the valley, home to the mud baths (yes, mud baths). Diverse choices, from budget friendly motels to wallet crunching resorts.
Choose wisely, grasshopper, know what you want and you shall find it!
If good dining is important to you, then make sure the hotel you pick is near some of the restaurants you want to eat at. I find it hard to get back in the car after a long day of drinking, I mean, tasting. So I always make sure that my hotel is close to the restaurants I want to check out. Remember, it's 30 miles from top to bottom so stay where you want to eat.
Big spenders will find it hard to resist Calistoga Ranch |
Once you have your area down, picking a hotel just got a lot easier with my guide because I personally visited every hotel in the Napa area and only put the ones down that I would stay at. Look, I'm pretty picky about where I stay. It doesn't always have to be 5 stars, but for a hotel to show up on my guide it has to meet my standards. That means a good location, above average setting, and clean rooms. Here's my test - would I send my Mom there? If I can't honestly say "yes" to that question, it's not in my guide.
And don't be fooled, there are plenty of dumps in Napa. Trust me, you will never have that horrible pang of anxiety as you drive up to your hotel and notice a giant cockroach flipping a sign in front that says "Welcome Fellow Insects". That's NOT Local Wally style. No roach motels, no dives, no dumps. |
One last note - please book through me if you can. When you do I get a couple of bucks which keeps this site running, and my rates are cheaper than hotels.com and other hotel sites because I don't add tons of last second service fees at the end like they do. Plus, my hotel booking site is BBB Online approved so it's nice and safe - you can even call and talk to a real live person who actually speaks fluent English because they actually live in the US at 877.763.4346 - how's that for progress?!
3. WHAT WINERIES SHOULD I VISIT?
Ask that question at work and you'll find yourself surrounded by people you've never met who all claim to be Napa experts. Geeks with thick glasses, the woman with a moustache, the sexual harassment guy, they're pouring out of the cubes like rats fleeing a sinking ship just to give you their advice. Bat them away like weasels with rabies because as well meaning as they are, they're usually wrong.
In a way, Napa is like sex. You do it once and all of a sudden you're an expert. Just about everyone you meet will passionately tell you where to go, what do see, and what to avoid. But check their credentials - have they been to Napa 25 years in a row, sometimes twice a year? Have they picked the brains of locals to find the best of Napa? Seriously, you wouldn't loan your stapler to any of these people at work, so why trust them to plan your vacation? |
The Inglenook story had a tragic ending until Coppola took it over |
Don't worry, I know the best wineries for first time visitors!
So here's the straight scoop on wineries in Napa. Most of the big ones are on the main drag, Highway 29. If you've never been to Napa, start here and visit the original wineries that made Napa famous. You know these names - Mondavi, Beringer, Beaulieu, Coppola's Rubicon Estates (once home to the once great Inglenook). You'll also find plenty of smaller names that might ring a bell, like Cakebread, Grcich Hills, and Trefethen, among others. Looking for that castle winery that you've seen on all the travel shows? It's Castello di Amorosa and it's right across the way from Sterling, the winery with the tram ride. Tons and tons of wineries to discover on and off Highway 29.
The Silverado Trail runs parallel to Highway 29, but is the road less traveled. That means less traffic, smaller crowds, and a more relaxed winetasting experience. If you have the time, do both H29 and Silverado Trail. My favorites are Regusci (feels a bit like Tuscany there), Silverado (terrific view on the patio), Mumm Napa (reasonably priced champagne, free tours and free art exhibit), and Frog's Leap (you know it's going to be fun with a name like that). But don't limit yourself to just these wineries as there are plenty more to discover.
Beautiful Old World Beringer |
A real castle - with wine! |
Over the top weird Darioush! |
LOCAL WALLY HOT TIP: Most first timers make the mistake of coming to Napa without a plan. That could be a problem because some wineries require you to make a reservation first - especially if you want to take a tour. You can find my favorite wineries in my Best Napa Wineries section. And if you're really stuck, go to my Agendas section and just follow my instructions for a guaranteed great visit to Napa. One tip that applies to everybody - Start your day at Domaine Chandon, the beautiful winery just up the street in Yountville. Not only are the grounds wonderfully landscaped, but the sparkling wine (champagne by any other name) is the perfect way to start your winetasting day.
4. WHERE SHOULD I EAT IN NAPA?
Go Fish offers up superb seafood like these scallops! |
Napa has become nearly as famous for its food as its wines. From classic drive-in burgers to over the top gourmet dining experiences, Napa has it all and everything in-between. Even if you're an Applebee's "riblette" sort of person, resist the temptation of fast food and chain restaurants and experience Napa dining. Food and wine pairing is big here, so break out of your comfort zone and trust your waiter to find you the perfect combination - and don't be shy about telling them your price range. I always say "what's a good glass in the $12 range to go with that dish?" No unpleasant sticker shock.
To help you pick the best for your budget and style, go to my Essential Napa Dining section and read my reviews. On a budget? No problem, just go to my Napa on a Budget section where I list all the best cheap eats. And remember, unless you're coming in off season it's always good to make reservations far in advance as the best places can book up fast.
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The short list - Local Wally's Favorite Good Eats!
BEST CHEAP EATS: Taylor's Automatic Refresher, a refurbished and upscaled drive-in burger joint featuring new twists on old favorites made with the best quality ingredients. My favorite? Ahi burger, which might not qualify for cheap eats at nearly $15, but man is it good!
BEST CASUAL DINING: Has to be Rutherford Grill, popular with both tourists and locals alike. Yes, it's a (gasp!) chain restaurant known as Houston's in other areas, but this is no Chilli's or Applebee's. Grab a seat at the bar if you can and people watch as you dine on fork tender ribs or rotisserie chicken. My favorite? The steak and enchilada combo.
BEST BISTRO DINING: Bistro Jeanty in Yountville has my vote for best French "bistro" food. The setting is casual enough for jeans or dockers, the service is friendly, the back dining room romantic. Not stuffy, not intimidating, even if you don't know nothing about French food. My favorite? Coq au Vin, the slow cooked chicken in red wine sauce.
BEST QUINTESSENTIAL NAPA RESTAURANT: We're on dangerous ground here, but I vote for Mustards as the best Napa-style restaurant. Mustards Grill put accessible gourmet food on the map, taking foods you know but making them new again. You'll find upscale diner food like gourmet meatloaf, as well as ribs, pork chops, and steaks. Always popular, always delicious, essential. My favorite? Truckstop Deluxe, always meat, usually potatoes, rarely vegetables. Taking a client to a business dinner? You can't miss with Mustards.
BEST OF THE BEST: Unless you're a foodie, the name Thomas Keller might not mean anything to you. But maybe you've seen the Disney movie Ratatouille, the story of the rat who wanted to be a gourmet chef? Well, that fancy restaurant they modeled the movie after was The French Laundry, arguably one of the best restaurants in the world. Say what? No, that's not marketing hype. The French Laundry, at around $250 per person before wine, is considered by gourmets to be in the top 2 or 3 best restaurants on this planet. Located right in Yountville, make sure you book your reservation exactly 2 months in advance as it is always booked solid. Now if spending a thousand bucks for dinner for two is a bit much but you want to see what all the fuss is about, Thomas Keller also offers two other Yountville restaurants that are priced a bit closer to Earth. Bouchon is a French Bistro that's fancy, but not too fancy, and Ad Hoc is family style dining famous for their fried chicken. What's cool about Ad Hoc is that the menu changes daily - and everyone gets the same thing. Want to see what's for dinner tonight? Go to Ad Hoc to see the menu.
5. HEY WALLY, WHAT ABOUT PICNICS?
I know you've just been aching to use that picnic basket that your Aunt Bernice gave you as a wedding gift 15 years ago. The checkered tablecloth, the plastic wineglasses, it's been sitting on the top shelf in your closet just waiting for this day. Put it to good use by filling it up with good eats at Oakville Grocery, the country store that's been serving Napa for the past 120 years.
You can't miss Oakville Grocery as you cruise up Highway 29 - just look for the giant Coca-Cola sign painted on the side (and the line of cars screeching their brakes to pull into the lot). Stocked with upscale foods and a full service deli, you'll be in foodie heaven as you browse the cheeses and vats of olives. You can't either go simple with a fresh baguette and some cheeses, or go gourmet with one of their delicious creations from the deli - I'm not talking Subway here!
Try the smoked turkey with brie cheese, or albacore with capers, or how about the vegetarian sandwich, made with roasted tomatoes, kalamatas, artichoke hearts, feta spread, red onion & arugula on herbed focaccia? In a rush? Just grab a premade sandwich in the front cooler. It's all goood. If you plan on picnicing at one of the wineries, don't buy wine here as most wineries appreciate, if not demand, that you drink their wine if you plan to use their facilities. |
It's not a tourist trap, it's an essential stop! |
The best Napa picnic spot is NOT the one the concierge recommended... you know the one I'm talking about!
If you ask your concierge where the best place to picnic is, most likely they will send you to V. Sattui. It certainly is a beautiful setting, but it's usually packed to the gills. Not only that but to use their facilities, V. Sattui insists you buy their wine and their food. That's why you never see Local Wally there. Instead, I head up to Diamond Oaks, high on a hill overlooking the valley. It's close to Oakville Grocery and you can get a nice bottle of chardonnay for $28. With picnic tables under the majestic oaks, it's hard to beat this setting. Another favorite pick is Coppola's Rubicon Estates. Formerly the old Inglenook winery, it's one of the oldest and most beautiful wineries in Napa. At $30 per person, it's expensive, but they'll give you a three day pass so you can taste one day then come back for your picnic the next. I love the bistro tables right outside the wine bar, perfect for people watching as you eat your picnic lunch. It's such a nice setting you might stay there all afternoon!
For more info on planning the perfect picnic, go to my Napa on a Budget / How to plan the Best Picnic section.
6. ANYONE GOT A MAP? I'M LOST!
Here's a few good maps that should help you get your bearings:
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Good Basic Map: From Napavalley.com, probably the best basic old fashioned winery map
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Clickable Map: Can be irritating, but worth checking out
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Googlemap: Best for mapping out distances between your stops
7. ANY ATTRACTIONS WORTH CHECKING OUT?
Historic Greystone is now the CIA... |
AKA Culinary Institute of America... |
a cooking school with a restaurant! |
You mean besides all the fantastic wineries and the incredible restaurants? Sure, there's more to Napa than just drinking and eating all day... or is there?? You decide after reading this list of activities.
THE WINE TRAIN: Modeled after the Orient Express, the Wine Train makes a 3 hour round trip from downtown to St. Helena in refurbished 1915 Pullman first class dining cars. Along the way there's food and wine, served up in an elegance of a time long forgotten. Well, sort of. Train buffs and nostalgia fans will love this experience, but foodies will certainly balk at the gourmet dinner that looks a lot like hotel convention food. If this wasn't Napa no one would notice, but since Napa is famous for great food and great restaurants, you do expect a little more. There's also special event nights, like "Murder Mystery Theater", and daytime trips where you stop at Domaine Chandon or Grgich Hills. 
COPIA: The word "copia" means "abundance", but there's not much of anything abundant except boredom in this giant museum dedicated to food and wine. Located in downtown Napa, it's one of those ideas that probably looked great on paper but the overall execution left me underwhelmed. Maybe it's because looking at food and wine exhibits isn't nearly as much fun as tasting food and wine. Unless you're planning on taking a wine education or cooking class, there's just not enough there to make it worth the time. (Note: Copia is currently in financial restructuring so call ahead if you are planning on going to make sure they are still open). 
CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (CIA): Napa old timers will remember this as the Christian Brother's Winery building. Built in 1888, the formidable stone building is reason enough to take a detour from winetasting to check out. The CIA is the training grounds for future chefs, but visitors can check out various displays as well as view live cooking demonstrations for a mere $15. The Wine Spectator restaurant is dazzling with its contemporary bar and open kitchen, but it's expensive even for lunch and their attitude can be a little snooty. But the setting on the patio is irresistible, overlooking the valley it's one of the best dining settings in Napa. A glass of wine and an appetizer to share and you're good to go. 
OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER IN CALISTOGA: Not to be confused with the real thing in Yellowstone, Old Faithful faithfully spouts its top off every 15 to 20 minutes. Add a petting zoo and "fainting goats" and you have "a wonderful place for the family to spend the day". Well, you can't blame the marketing guy for trying. In truth, it's one of those oddities like stopping at the giant fake artichoke in Castroville or taking your picture in front of the worlds largest rubber band ball. Not essential, but goofy enough that you might want to stop. And since you've already gone this far, you won't want to miss the petrified forest in the same area. Wow, and you thought Napa was just about winetasting!
MUD BATHS: You've been to all those high end spas where they treat you like royalty (as long as you have a gold card). Now try the original spa treatment, discovered by the Wappo Indians thousands of years ago and popularized by "Doc" Wilkinson in the 1950's. The natural hot springs combined with the volcanic ash and peat moss from the area form the foundation for the 100 degree mud bath. You might not find mystical Zen music and the hush toned spa atmosphere here, but you will find a $129 treatment which includes a soak in mud, a whirlpool bath, a trip to the steam room, blanket wrap, and finally a soothing 30 minute massage. The Doc now has plenty of competition, including those who have upscaled the experience (and upscaled the price), but for me it's all about the original. Funky, so be forewarned!
8. SHOULD I JOIN A WINE CLUB?
Warning: Wine Club pitch coming right out of left field! |
Sooner or later you're going to be minding your own business at the tasting bar happily sipping some wine, your brain reasonably sloshed, and the server ruins the mood by pulling out a wine club brochure. He smiles and says "hey there, have you heard about our club?"
WARNING, WARNING WILL ROBINSON! Instantly what's left of your guard goes up, like when the Jehovah's Witnesses knock on your front door. Free club, free wine tasting, free tours, friends drink free, free newsletter, free special events, free, free free!! Your brain is working extra hard to process it all through the alcoholic haze.
It sure seems like a good deal, but will this be like the time when you bought the timeshare in Riverside? Your stomach is churning with anxiety, you're trying to listen and get out of there at the same time. Let's face it, buying things when you're drunk usually is a bad idea!
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Too good to be true? Sometimes, sometimes not....
Hold on there, sometimes wine clubs can actually be very good - if you're smart about it. Remember when you were a kid and sent in a penny and actually got 13 CD's for free because you cancelled after the first shipment?? That's sort of like a wine club. You get tons of free stuff, and like the CD club all you have to do is pay for one shipment, usually two bottles, for around $75. Do the math, pencil it out, and sometimes it works out. Besides, it's fun getting wine, especially good wine, shipped to your home. I feel like a kid chasing the ice cream truck every time the UPS guy pulls up to my house because I know that there will be a couple bottles of nice stuff to drink that night!
But a few words to the wise - Wine clubs are really easy to join, so easy in fact that you might find yourself signing up at every winery you visit. Not good, not unless you want to be on the next episode of Intervention. So be selective. Ask how many shipments, ask what the approximate cost is (some can get sky high, so be careful!), ask how easy it is to cancel. And make sure you like the wine and follow Local Wally's Rule of Wine Clubs - NEVER join a club after winetasting all day! Typically by the third winery everything tastes pretty darn good, if you know what I mean.
LOCAL WALLY'S HOT WINE CLUB TIP: If you think you will love a certain wine or are certain you want to visit a specific winery, join the club online before you arrive so you can get free tastings and free or discounted tours. You'll get the VIP treatment, get to taste the more expensive reserve wines, and can quit the club once you get home after the first shipment if you end up not liking their wines.
LOCAL WALLY'S FAVORITE WINE CLUB: They don't pay me to say this, but I really like the Domaine Chandon club. Club members get a full glass of champagne upon arrival and free reserve tastings (normally $16 per person) in a members only area. I always start my day of winetasting at Domaine Chandon, and you should too!
9. WHO ARE YOU, LOCAL WALLY, CAN I ADVERTISE ON YOUR SITE, AND HOW DO I CONTACT YOU?
It's true, I'm just a guy who likes good wine and food and likes building websites. I started my first site on San Diego in 1996 and named it Local Wally's Guide to San Diego. To my surprise I won some pretty prestigious awards, such as Best Local Site by both The San Diego Union Tribune and The San Diego Reader. I was interviewed on the PBS station and was even asked by the local TV station to be an on-air personality. I'm not a professional writer or web designer, but I did work a couple of years at a legitimate travel site during the dot-com era that went dot-com bust. In real life I work in an office wishing I was on vacation, spending most of my spare time hanging out with my wife and daughters, playing my guitar, or goofing around outside on my scooter.
In the past I wasn't open to advertising, but I've changed my tune a bit with this new site - especially since I'm getting roughly 12,000 visitors a month with that number growing everyday. If you want to offer two-for-one or discount coupons, contact me and let's get it on the site - FREE for wineries or restaurants as I'm trying to build good content for my visitors. For a reasonable fee I'm also open to doing ad boxes (150x150 pixels) and banners that link back to your site. And if you manage a restaurant, hotel, or winery and want me to check it out, just email me and I'll be sure to drop in on my next visit. If I like it, I'll add a positive review on the site. I won't promise to always give a great review, but I'll do my best to be fair to my visitors. And for those of you reading this who are Napa locals or experienced Napa travelers, let me know if I got anything wrong (be nice) or want to recommend something for me to check out. Thanks!
LOCAL WALLY EMAIL: Wally@NapaTouristGuide.com or Wally@LocalWally.com
SITES: NapaTouristGuide.com (established 2008) and LocalWally.com (established 1996)
HOTEL BOOKING: Bookings are done through Advanced Reservations Systems (ARES), an independent company that is the booking "engine" behind many chamber of commerce and hotel sites. You can see all of the Napa area hotels offered at the Hotel Booking site. You may also call them at 877.763.4346. I've worked with them for over 10 years and have yet to get a complaint - they're that good. They're also BBB approved, so no worries there.
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