How to Squeeze The Best of Napa Valley Winetasting into the Shortest Amount of Time!
Planning a trip to Napa Valley is a lot harder than it looks. It starts out as fun, but then the pressure kicks in when you realize that there is no possible way you can visit every winery or eat at every restaurant, that's there's only enough time for one romantic picnic, and that your spouse is counting on you to do all the work! Then there's that pushy guy at work who insists he knows everything about Napa and starts telling you to go to places you've never heard of, and tells you everything you want to do is a tourist trap for suckers. You read the various sites, but they're no help as they are all biased towards their advertisers, and you can't tell if that restaurant or hotel review you just read was written by an expert or an idiot. Local Wally to the rescue! In my 25 or so years of visiting Napa and talking to locals, I think I got this pretty much down pat. I'll show you the way to a great vacation, whether it's a day trip, weekend getaway, or longer trip. This is the Best of Napa, tested by me and my friends so many times that you are virtually guaranteed to have a good time.
This is easier than copying the answers off the kid next to you in class!
Look to the right - NO, not the wall, but to the right side of this page. You'll see that I've already built a one day agenda for first timers coming to Napa as well as a two day romantic getaway. These agendas are your foolproof ticket to a good time in Napa. Just print and go - no decisions needed! I've also put together a Napa On A Budget page for those of you poor folks in the middle class. You don't have to sit around waiting for a government handout when you got Local Wally! How about free 2-fer-1 tasting coupons, free tours, and the best cheap hotels? And just for fun, I've even added a cool interactive section where people get to share what you like to do in Napa in the 1,001 Things To Do In Napa Before You Die. So there you have it, the perfect cheat sheets for a perfect trip to Napa wine country.
HOW TO PLAN A TRIP TO NAPA IN 5 EASY STEPS
Step 1: Pick the right time to visit
Can you believe it? Empty picnic tables at V. Sattui? It can happen if you come at the right season. |
Your planning starts with picking the right time to visit Napa. With Napa being the second most visited tourist attraction in California, right behind Disneyland, you can expect huge crowds during the peak Summer season. That's why you'll rarely find me there in Summer. If I want crowds, well, I go to Disneyland.
The best time to visit for me is either Spring or Fall. While both seasons offer weather good enough for picnics, they're very different experiences. Come in Spring and you might at first be disappointed that there are no grapes on the vines. But Spring is when the mustard plants are in bloom, splashing brilliant technicolor yellow everywhere you look. On the other hand, Fall is "crush" time when they harvest the grapes. If you wanted to see a winery in production, this is the time to visit. Leaves turning gold, the smell of grapes in the air, Fall has a lot to offer.
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Come in November and the crowds are nearly completely gone, restaurants are wide open, room rates downright cheap, and you'll get plenty of attention at the wineries. As you get deeper into the Winter months, you might get some rain. With the right attitude, this isn't much of a problem as you spend most of your time inside when you winetaste, but forget about the picnics and outdoor tours. However, that fireplace back in your room could come in really handy at night, if you're thinking what I'm thinking!
Step 2: Pick the right hotel in the right location
No dives, no roach hotels, trust Wally to show you the best hotels in Napa!
When it comes to photos of hotels on the internet, I think using Photoshop should be illegal. If the hotel is a dump, I don't think it's fair that you can Photoshop out the pimps and ho's and replace them with valets and Victoria Secret models. I've had more than my fair share of hotel surprises, booking what I thought was going to be a classy place but pulling up to a giant cardboard box set next to the freeway off ramp. Keep the free HBO, I'm outta here!
Lucky for you that Local Wally went to Napa and checked out all the hotels in the area. I wrote reviews on the ones I would stay at in my Best Napa Hotels section. Pick any hotel in that guide and you know that it has the Local Wally Seal of Approval - in other words, these are the places I would stay at, and I'm rather picky so you know they're going to be good. If you're an independent sort, you can also go to the Complete Napa Hotel Guide where you can search by price or area. The complete guide has all the hotels, including those outside of the main Napa area, so make sure you check your map before you book. And please, if you can, book through me as I get a couple of bucks every time you do and it's your bookings that keep my site running. Of course, my booking site is BBB approved and - gasp - you can even speak with a live person who actually speaks English! Holy cow, is that progress or what?!
No camera tricks, no Photoshop enhancements, honest reviews on Local Wally!
You should start your hotel search by understanding the main areas you can stay in Napa Valley. Starting from the south, they are:
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DOWNTOWN NAPA: Cool and trendy, sort of a hip place to stay - but furthest away from the actual wineries. You'll drive ten minutes before you're into the real wine country. But rates are cheaper here, and there are plenty of excellent restaurants so you won't have to leave the area in the evening to get a good meal. Stay here if you're on a tight budget.
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YOUNTVILLE: Close your eyes and dream of the perfect Napa town - quaint, charming, surrounded by vineyards - Hey, you're in Yountville! Top notch hotels, three Thomas Keller restaurants, a converted winery turned into a boutique shopping mall, this is prime time Napa. Expensive in season, but can drop to reasonable prices in off season. Stay here if you want to impress your date - ultra romantic.
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RUTHERFORD AND ST. HELENA: Now you are in the heart of wine country. You'll find one of a kind boutiques and 5 star resorts. Some priced better than you might think, others perfect for recent lottery winners. Stay here if you got the big bucks and don't mind spending them.
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CALISTOGA: Way up north, a bit too far for some to consider, but features old school motels like Dr. Wilkinson's Mud Baths as well as newer upscale places like Calistoga Ranch that cost more than my mortgage payment. Stay here if you're looking for something really different, either really cheap or really expensive.
Pick anyplace other than these four areas and you're on your own! In my opinion, they will be too far from the main action. Seriously, don't book anywhere outside of these areas unless your idea of a Napa vacation is driving in your rental car while your angry spouse keeps asking "wasn't there anyplace closer?" No loving for Mr. Cheapskate tonight.
Step 3: Select Your Wineries
Trust a "local guy" to show you the best Napa wineries to visit!
You can always tell the people who didn't plan ahead before they got into the car. They're the ones driving either really fast or really slow on Highway 29, craning their heads like a flamingo to see if they want to stop, then slamming on their brakes and making an illegal Bat-Turn into the parking lot - only to see that it's by reservation only. Don't be that person.
Follow my advice and pick 4 to 5 wineries in geographic order that you want to stop at ahead of time. And be smart and pick them in the general direction you will be traveling, starting in Yountville and then going north towards Calistoga. You can find all of my favorite wineries in my Best Napa Wineries guide - not a bad place to start since there are over 300 wineries in Napa. Choose some of the big historic wineries and mix in some smaller boutiques for a well rounded experience. |
Hall Winery is a small boutique with lots of personality |
You might also want to follow a theme in the wineries you pick. Visit the wineries that made Napa famous in the 1976 blind tasting, also known as The Judgment of Paris. Or visit just the wineries with two-fer-one coupons. Like history? Beringer, Rubicon, Mondavi, BV are all good places to visit. And remember, there are two main roads going in Napa. Highway 29 is the main road, but the Silverado Trail runs parallel to it and offers even more wineries, often with fewer crowds. Make sure you do both roads to get a complete Napa experience. Here's a good basic winery map of the area to help you get your bearings.
Here are a few winery tips for Napa first timers
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Start your day at Domaine Chandon. Not only is it a beautiful setting, but sipping champagne just seems right in the morning. Check out the mushroom garden, made up of rocks, as you cross the bridge over the pond to the entry. They also have a killer wine club. It's free to join, giving you two free tastings ($30 value), a bottle of bubbly for a buck ($50 value), and a commitment to only buy one shipment (around $75). I always start my winetasting day at Domaine Chandon, and you should to.
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Decide if you want to tour a winery and get a reservation. Tours can take time, so plan ahead. The best tours for first timers are probably at one of the big three - Mondavi, Beringer, or Rubicon (Coppola). These tours give you both a bit of history on the winery as well as some education on how wine is made. For a free tour, go to Mumm's on the Silverado Trail. And for something really different, go to Frog's Leap where the free tour is a walk through the vineyards. Want to see wine caves? Then head to Clos Pegase. And for something really different, head to the castle winery - Castello di Amorosa - where you'll tour a full scale, authentic castle straight from Lord of the Rings!
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Mix the big wineries with some smaller ones. Some people will tell you to avoid the big wineries, calling them commercial or tourist traps, but I think they're wrong. First timers to Napa need to visit the big three (Mondavi, Beringer, Rubicon) to appreciate the history these wineries represent. Featuring stunning architecture and beautiful grounds, it's a Napa no-brainer. But if you have the time, I also suggest you add a few smaller wineries to the mix to see what "new" Napa is all about. You'll find people who are passionate about their wines, smaller crowds, and a much more intimate experience. My favorite smaller wineries are Cakebread, Regusci, Grgich, and a real oddball one, Frank Family. Read up on them in my Top Napa Wineries guide, and you decide which ones get on your agenda. Looking for two-fer-one tasting coupons? Go to my Napa on a Budget section to find every discount coupon on the internet, as well as info on free tours and even free tastings!
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Pace yourself. Unlike barhopping where the object is to drink as much as possible as fast as possible, wine tasting is about slowing down to enjoy the ambiance, the people, the setting, and yes, the wine. So don't try to cram too many wineries into a day, and consider sharing tastings. Don't worry, it's perfectly acceptable to split tastings. Not only does it help stretch the budget, saving you cash for the fancy dinner you're going to have tonight, but it also lets you visit more wineries. Remember my tip - if you're slurring your words and acting obnoxious, slow down!
Step 4: Where to Eat?
Hungry and have a thousand bucks burning a hole in your pocket?
As if having some of the best wineries in the world wasn't enough, Napa somehow attracted some of the best chefs who have turned this area into a mecca for food lovers of all levels. There's something for everyone, from incredible burgers at Taylors, a refurbished drive-in that retains all of its original charm while serving up to date takes on the classics, to The French Laundry, a five star dining experience that's considered one of the best in the world - and can set you back a thousand bucks for dinner for two with wine! With so many choices, it can get rather confusing. That's why I always ask the locals where they would eat when I come to town. Their suggestions and my reviews are all collected in my Essential Napa Dining section.
LOCAL WALLY HOT TIP: There's fierce competition for a table at The French Laundry, but using Open Table is way easier than the traditional method of speed dialing two months in advance.
For those of you with Attention Deficit Disorder, here's a tip. Start by looking for restaurants in the same area as your hotel. Napa is surprisingly large, so even though driving from downtown to Calistoga doesn't look that far on a map, it's probably the last thing you will want to do after a long day of winetasting. Now that you got that narrowed down, here's a short list of the best restaurants in Napa.
Here's a short list of the best eats in Napa!
CHEAP EATS: The Bounty Hunter with Beer Can Chicken for 2
ROMANTIC: Celadon's outside patio on a warm evening next to the fireplace
BIG NIGHT OUT: Cole's Chop House
for serious steaks
SOMETHING DIFFERENT: Zuzu's for hip and trendy small plates of tapas
REMINDS ME OF PARIS DINING : Bistro Jeanty offers fine country French cooking at reasonable prices
RELATIVELY REASONABLE THOMAS KELLER DINING: Ad Hoc, where everyone gets the same thing each night
KIND OF EXPENSIVE THOMAS KELLER DINING: Bouchon, an upscale French Bistro experience
PRAY FOR GOVT. BAILOUT THOMAS KELLER DINING: The French Laundry at $250 per person - before wine
CLASSIC NAPA: Mustards has been delighting customers a long time with their upscale "diner" theme
BEST CHEAP BURGERS: Taylor's Refresher, as seen on Food TV! Rare ahi burger is not to be missed
LOCAL HANGOUT: Grab a stool a the bar at Rutherford's Grill and hang with the locals. Basic food done well
GIADA LIKES IT: Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, where they turned a house into a restaurant
TOP SUSHI AND SEAFOOD: Go Fish, an upscale take on a West Coast fish house - another "Cindy" restaurant
BEST ITALIAN: Tra Vigne, a place that even Michael Chiarello of Food TV fame would love - since he once owned it
Step 5: Activities Besides Winetasting?
With so many beautiful wineries, it would be easy to overlook the other things you can do while in Napa. In fact, you should overlook most of them. After all, you didn't come all this way to visit some crummy factory outlet mall, or see a miniature Old Faithful geyser, did you? OK, looks like your pal Wally has to help you out again. Here's a short summary of the various other things you can do in Napa.
To Wine Train, or not the Wine Train, that is the question....
Not sure what wine pairs best with a pickle and pepper! |
A three hour ride on a refurbished 1915 Pullman dining car where they serve up "gourmet" foods and local wines sounds like a good idea, but think twice before you plunk down your $97 and hop aboard. Mired in controversy since it opened in 1989, it was the brainchild of Vincent DeDomenico - wait, that name sounds familiar - that's right, it's the guy who invented Rice-A-Roni, the San Francisco treat.
I've always had a hard time giving advice to tourists on whether to do the Wine Train or not. I found the whole experience average, but others on the same ride I took got off raving about it. How could this be? Do I recommend it or not? It took me a long time but I found the sure-fire way to predict whether you'll put this in the "Best of Napa" or "Biggest Waste of Time" category, and ironically it was right under my nose. |
Is the Wine Train a tourist trap, or the real deal? You decide!
It's as simple as this - how much you enjoy Rice-A-Roni is in direct proportion to how much you're going to like the Wine Train. If you LIKE Rice-A-Roni, if you believe that people in San Francisco think of it as a treat, then you're going to love the Wine Train. If, on the other hand, the idea of opening a box of prepackaged artificially flavored rice packed with tasty sodium is not on your menu, then you're going to want to skip this one. Add Murder Mystery specials on some nights (kill me, kill me!) and day trips that stop actually stop at a couple of wineries (good idea). Napa Valley Wine Train info and reservations.
Copia, the American Center for Wine, Food and Arts - really?
It's so seductive. The idea of a museum dedicated to Wine, Food and Arts, in Napa no less, seems like a match made in heaven. It's too bad it's so boring. In fact, I'm starting to doze off right now just thinking about Copia. I love food, I watch more Food TV than sports, and I drink so much wine that the guy who picks up my garbage left a Alcoholics Anonymous pamphlet on my recycling bins. And art? Oh yeah, I love the stuff. But Copia? Say, didn't I have an appointment for a colonoscopy that day? Wait, Aunt Jean is in town? And she brought slides of her vacation at DisneyWorld? Damn, looks like I have to miss Copia. If you go, don't say I didn't warn you. Copia, American Center for Food, Wine and Arts. (note: better call ahead before going as it's currently in financial "restructuring" and possibly closed).
Hey, is there Supposed to be Mud in my Bathtub?
Napa has no shortage of spas. If you like upscale spa treatments, look no further than Villagio in Yountville. They've always pampered their guests, but the new spa building completed in 2008 kicks up up a few notches. For total decadence, consider Auberge du Soliel. With their 7,000 square foot spa overlooking the valley, it's easy to see why this is considered perhaps the best upscale spa in Napa. Big spenders will like the private suites featuring private outdoor showers and hot tubs overlooking with a view. Of course, for that real Napa experience you head to Calistoga and jump in a mud bath. There are plenty of new places popping up and popping up prices, but the original downscale and homespun mud baths can be found at Dr. Wilkinson's. For $129 you get the "works" - a float in the mud, which is really volcanic ash and peat moss, a facial mask (so no one will recognize you while you sit in the mud, I presume), aromatic whirlpool bath, a blanket wrap, then a full hour massage. Get French Laundry treatment at Bob's Big Boy prices!
Shop till you Drop, Napa style
Shopping just got a whole lot better with a Wine Tasting Card!
Sorry guys, but my wife found all the best places to shop so it's my duty as Local Wally to report it. Yountville has some random shops up and down the street, but the main concentration of stores can be found at V Marketplace, an old winery converted into a huge shopping center filled with boutiques, art galleries, and one of a kind stores. Some of the shops are a bit, well, Grandma-ish, but the opening of Food TV's Michael Chiarello's NapaStyle is a welcome addition and an essential stop for food and wine lovers.
For less touristy shopping, head to St. Helena and walk the downtown area. Here you'll find four blocks of boutiques, restaurants, and plenty of stores unique to Napa. Interesting architecture with lots of small town charm. Olive oil tasting, anyone?
Downtown Napa also offers plenty of shopping options. I like downtown with it's small town feel and architecture. My suggestion if you plan on spending any time downtown is to get a Wine Tasting Card - for $20 you can pop into any of the ten tasting rooms and have a sip for a mere $.10. Imagine how much fun you can have with a couple fo bucks! All of a sudden shopping is sounding a lot more fun. Free trolley to take you around the area, too. Hey honey, can we please go shopping, please???
Is Food TV on your Tivo Back Home?
Foodies must stop at both Oakville Grocery and Dean & Deluca. These are not mere picnic supply stops, but rather a sensory delight for those who love good food, wine, or anything to do with either. Vats of olives, rows of unusual cheeses, delicious sandwiches made fresh at the deli, it's a delightful shopping experience if you love good food.
I love stopping in at Oakville Grocery with it's country store charm and gourmet foods. Some cheese and a baguette is a Napa requirement for the front seat of your car when you wine taste, and Oakville Grocery has a huge cheese selection. Up in St. Helena you'll find the more upscale Dean & Deluca, a New York transplant that fits in well in Napa. More cheeses, more meats, more wines, it's like you stepped into a Wal-Mart for foodies. |
Can it get any more quaint than Oakville Grocery? |
Food Lovers rejoice! Napa is a Foodies' paradise!
Since we're on the food trail, you might want to head over to the Culinary Institute of America, also known as the CIA. Housed in what was once the Christian Brother's Winery, it's a grand old building on the same level as Beringer or even Rubicon (Coppola). That alone makes it a good stop, but foodies will love watching the live cooking demonstrations (Mon, Fri, Sat and Sun only, $15). This is a serious cooking school, but visitors will enjoy browsing the displays and gift shop, and yes, there's even the trendy Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant where you can dine on some of the foods of these aspiring chefs. The restaurant gets mixed reviews, but there is no doubt that the setting, both inside and out, is stunning. Sit at the bar with a glass of wine, split a plate for a snack, and watch the chefs in action in front of you. It's like watching an Iron Chef show live!
Of course, no respectable foodie can resist sampling some of the culinary delights - especially with top chefs Thomas Keller, Cindy Pawlcyn and Greg Cole having restaurants all around the area. So here's an idea - pick a chef and dine at all of their restaurants during your stay. Or just pop into various restaurants up and down the street, grab a seat at the bar and pick an appetizer or split an entree to go with a glass of wine, then graze on over to their next restaurant. This is bar hopping, Napa style! (Note: Popping into The French Laundry is not an option. Remember that before you stumble through their front door asking for the bar menu!)
The Perfect Napa Picnic?
Everyone wants to picnic when they are in Napa, and who can blame them? There's nothing better than a scenic view, a bottle of wine, and some tasty snacks with someone you might have a chance of scoring with later that night. It's sensual, it's enticing.... and if you don't listen to Local Wally, it's crowded! Luckily, your romantic twosome doesn't have to turn into a Roman orgy - as long as you plan ahead. First off, forget about V. Sattui, the often recommended and always packed during Summer winery right on Highway 29. Nice place for sure, but more crowded than Costco before Labor Day weekend and about as much fun trying to get a place to park. Instead, head over to Diamond Oaks (near Oakville Grocery, off the highway on a hill), Rutherford Hill (top of the hill near 5 star resort Auberge du Soleil), Rombauer Vineyards (off the beaten path, secret paths to lush landscaping), Regusci Winery (off the Silverado Trail) or Hall Napa Valley (bistro tables under the oaks). I also love the setting at Rubicon (Coppola) - you'll feel like you're on a European vacation if you can get a bistro table near the wine bar. Buy a glass and people watch all afternoon.
Remember, no bringing in that bottle of Two Buck Chuck unless you want to get that evil eye from the winery personnel. The expectation is that you buy a bottle or glass from them if you're going to use their facilities.
Visit the Famous "Napa Castle" that Everyone is Talking About!
Is this place for real? A full scale castle? With Wine?
Authentic down to every last detail |
I know, I already mentioned Castello di Amorosa but it bears repeating. This is the famous Napa castle, built by winemaker Darryl Sattui over the past 14 years at a cost of $30M. At 121,000 square feet, 107 rooms and 7 levels, this is no Disneyland or Las Vegas fake.
Every detail has been recreated so authentically that you will bet that this castle is a thousand years old. The nearly two hour tour takes you through the castle, all the way down to the dungeons, then ends with some winetasting. You'll feel like you've landed in the Middle Ages, or Middle Earth if you're a hobbit fan. It's less of a wine tour and more of a winery tour, so put this one on your agenda if you're looking for something really unique to do.
Castello di Amorosa, info and reservations
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See the Valley from a Hot Air Balloon
Is your life dull and boring? Do you work in a cube where the highlight of the day is the sound of the roach coach horn as it pulls into the parking lot? Then you need to break out of this rut and jump in a hot air balloon. Awaken your inner child as you take off into the sky, waving goodbye to the people below as you climb to a view of Napa that few have seen. There are many balloon companies to choose from, but two stand out as the top choices. Napa Valley Balloons has been flying high over Napa since 1980. Recommended by Oprah, as seen on The Today Show and The Travel Channel, these guys have plenty of referrals - a good thing when you're talking about flying a giant balloon 3,000 feet over the ground! The other solid pick is Balloons Above the Valley. Their celebrity endorsement comes from Giada, the big hot girl with the big smile (as well as other things) from Food TV.
The entire experience lasts around 4 hours, so plan ahead. You'll get there pre-dawn (yes, that means early morning) and then fly over the valley as the fog slowly melts away. Your initial butterlies and excitement ("we're all going to die!!!") quickly turns to one of calm and you gently float above the valley, sometimes close enough to skirt the treetops, othertimes high with the clouds. There's no airsickness, no swaying, just awe and amazement. The actual flight lasts around an hour, then it's back to Earth for champagne brunch and lots of self congratulating for doing something truly unique. Still not sure? Then come with Local Wally on his recent hot air balloon ride with Napa Valley Balloons!
Now put it all together and you've got yourself an agenda....
You made it to the end! Whoo hoo, give yourself a pat on your back and let's summarize. First, you start by picking the right season. Then you let Local Wally help you pick the right hotel in the right area of town. Then you pick the wineries, the tours, and the activities. Plan ahead and make your dinner reservations before you arrive. Write it all down and you are set to go for a perfect trip to Napa! And remember, when all else fails I already put together first timers agendas for one day, two days, and Napa on a Budget. Who's your Daddy now?
Your Napa Guide,
Local Wally
You can do it! Choose wisely and you'll have the ultimate Napa vacation!
