LET'S DO A NAPA VALLEY DAY TRIP - SEE IT ALL IN A DAY!
TRAVELER PROFILE: Never been to Napa Valley, one day to explore
SUMMARY: Champagne at Domaine Chandon, stroll Yountville, tour Mondavi, buy sandwiches at Oakville Grocery, eat them at Coppola's Rubicon Winery, taste at historic Beringer Vineyards, end the day watching the sunset while sipping champagne at Mumms or sitting at the bar at Auberge du Soleil.
THE GOOD: Type A personalities will love that they will need to schedule everything in their Blackberry to stay on time.
THE BAD: This is speed wine tasting - you'll see a lot, but it's going to be busy!
Can it be done? The best of Napa Valley in just 8 hours?
STOP 1: FIRST STOP, CHAMPAGE AT DOMAINE CHANDON
Up the road from the main town of Yountville is
Domaine Chandon, a beautiful winery with lush grounds and sparkling wines - a perfect way to start your Napa trip. There's something just right about starting your wine tasting trip with champagne - I mean, do you really want to be drinking a big, bold cabernet right after breakfast? Not me, so I always start my day at Domaine Chandon. Wonderful landscaping, look for the mushroom garden scupture made out of little stones as you cross over the bridge walkway. And here's a tip - if you like what you tasted, join their wine club. They'll comp you your tastings ($10 to $15 apiece), let you buy a $50 of Etoile, a wonderful sparkling rose, for a buck (might come in handy tonight back in the room!), and then send two bottles to your home (around $75). And, of course, once you're in the club you can stop in again at any time for more free tastings. Oh yeah, and you get to keep the fluted logo'd champagne glasses to show off when you get home. Man, I like this place!
Start your day the way Wally does with a glass of bubbling champage!
STOP 2: CHECK OUT THE SHOPS AT YOUNTVILLE
OK guys, don't hate me but your wives will never forgive me if I didn't mention The V Marketplace, an old brick winery that's been converted into shops and galleries. As shopping goes, this is a pretty painless stop as there's plenty to see and the setting beautiful. Food TV guy Michael Chiarello can get on my nerves in a Rachael Ray sort of way, but his new NapaStyle shop is an essential stop for food and wine lovers. How can you not like a store that also has a wine bar?
Sure it looks good, but it tastes even better! |
Foodies, pay attention! Across the street is the famous Bouchon Bakery, owned by famous chef Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame. For those of you not in the know, Thomas Keller is considered of of the premiere chefs in the world and The French Laundry is a contender for best restaurant in the world. Bouchon is his sister restaurant and the next door bakery makes pastries and fresh baked items that are a true delight to taste and see. Come in to smell the delicious aroma and make sure you pick up a couple of macaroons, a sweet morsel about the size of a slider hamburger that's guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Jump back in your car and continue north to drive through the little town and you'll find an assuming building that houses The French Laundry. Stop and take a picture in front and take a moment to notice the vegetable garden across the street that grows many of their fresh ingredients.
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But as charming as Yountville is, be careful not to spend too much time here as we got a packed agenda ahead of us. Come on, let's get moving!
Hurry to the next winery before the buzz wears off!
STOP 3: NEED MORE WINE! TASTE AND DO A WINERY TOUR AT FAMOUS MONDAVI!
On your maiden Napa trip you must do at least one tour, and Mondavi has some of the best. They'll take you from grape to bottle to tasting in about 75 minutes. Now a lot of well meaning Napa "experts" will tell you not to go to Mondavi because it's too touristy or too commercial, but they're forgetting that Mondavi is one of the "iconic" wineries in Napa, the winery that arguably helped put Napa on the map. If your only experience with Mondavi is from their big bottle Woodbridge (yuck), then you're in for a big surprise. Call 888-RMONDAVI to get a reservation and plan your morning around this time.
STOP 4 : HEY WALLY, I'M STARVING! CAN WE PA-LEEZE STOP AT OAKVILLE GROCERY?
A trip to Napa is not complete without a stop in at the Oakville Grocery Co., a gourmet market that's served Napa for the past 120 years.
It's time to get some supplies for a picnic. There are freshly made sandwiches at the deli, "grab and go" sandwiches in the refrigerator case (good idea if it's too busy), as well as stuff to make your own. A baguette of crusty French bread, some salami and cheese, a jar of gourmet mustard, mmmm, this is sounding good. But where will you eat this great food? Don't worry, just bag it up with some napkins (and some bottled waters) and follow me to the next stop - it's a good one!
Even if you don't picnic, stop in at Oakville Grocery just to check out the gourmet foods!
Not the pic-a-nicking type? Down the street is Rutherford Grill, a casual restaurant that's a favorite with both locals and visitors. It can get pretty busy here, so do what Wally does and grab a seat at the bar if you can. They set down little tablecloths and you order off the same menu. It's not only faster, but it's also more fun chatting with the bartenders and watching the people. And here's another tip - get the grilled artichoke - you won't be sorry.
Don't make the mistake of thinking that Taylor's Automatic Refresher, a classic "drive-in" food done up Napa Style, is fast food. The long lines of enthusiatic eaters guarantees that it's anything but fast. Taylor's has taken the drive-in burger concept and updated it Napa style, causing Food TV and Travel Channel personalities gush over it, calling it one of the best burger stops in America. It's features not only classic burgers but new twists such as the ahi burger, an Asian influenced burger served up rare and delicious, or incredible fish and chips made from mahi mahi. Beer and wine, sweet potato fries and onion rings, real ice cream shakes, Taylor's lives up to its reputation. Long lines at lunch, so get there early.
And if you ever drive by and see the rare sight of no lines in front, make sure you stop in to see what all the fuss is about! |
A line of fries at Taylor's Refresher |
STOP 5: BIG WINERY SELLS OUT, GOES HOLLYWOOD, FINDS IT'S WAY HOME - COPPOLA'S RUBICON
Here's a short history on the next stop. In 1880, a worldly sea captain who made a fortune in the Alaskan fur trade moves to Napa and builds a winery, calling it Inglenook. Heard of it? What? You mean that really bad wine I get at Longs Drugs for when my brother-in-law visits? Not quite - at one time Inglenook was quite the wine, winning awards and earning a great reputation for producing some of Napa's finest. But then the giant corporation buys it and ruins a perfectly good thing, selling out the reputation and slapping the Inglenook name on jugs of bad wine. It took 80 years to build the Inglenook brand, far less to destroy it. Enter Francis Ford Coppola, the movie mogul, who buys it all up and turns the winery into a mini-movie museum. Tourists flocked to it like locusts during the dust bowl, making it as busy as Disneyland on the Fourth of July. So he ups the "admission" price, dumps a lot of the movie memorabillia, and the crowds thinned out to a more reasonable level.
Splure on a visit to Rubicon to discover "old" Napa |
That's all fine and good, but why should you plunk down $25 to see this winery, now called Rubicon Estate? Because Coppola has done an outstanding job in his quest to return this winery to the glory it once had. Some will argue that the wines, while very good, are not to the standards of the best in Napa, but that would be missing the point of visiting here. It's really all about the stunning grounds and beautiful architecture, looking like an ancient winery somewhere in Europe.
There's bistro tables under the mature trees in front, perfect for that picnic lunch you got at Oakville Grocery (you can buy wine by the glass to enjoy with your lunch), and the winery has that feel of old tradition with it's ivy covered walls and the cool dark interiors. Rubicon is a classic, a grand old winery with a lot of history and elegance.
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The old Inglenook winery is filled with Napa history - and great wines to taste!
There's still some movie memorbilia from the man who brought you The Godfather, but Rubicon wisely moved the focus back to wine. For $25 you get a short tour featuring the history of the winery, five tastings, plus access to the grounds. It's steep, yes, but as a first time visitor it's an essential stop. Look, I know you're going to hear other "experts" tell you that this is a rip off and a tourist trap, but perhaps they don't appreciate the significance of one of the founding Napa wineries. You need to stop here to see what I'm talking about. Seriously, do not skip this winery!
Now pass me that sandwich - I'm starving!
STOP 6: THROUGH THE TUNNEL OF TREES, ANOTHER ICONIC NAPA WINERY AWAITS - BERINGER
So here's the story - two German guys move to the United States around 1870. By 1875 they have $14,500 burning a hole in their pocket - but these guys are smart. They don't blow it on a trip to Vegas like you or I would, they buy themselves 215 acres of prime grape growing property in Napa and a year later they crush their first grapes - Beringer Vineyards was born. Things are going well and in 1883 one brother builds the ornate Rhine House, a Californian take on their German residence back home. With 17 rooms and exceptional craftsmanship, it remains a stunning piece of architecture. Two years later they plant the row of trees along the highway, creating the famous "tunnel of trees" that you still drive through today, and before you know it these two guys start winning awards for their wines. In 1934, Beringer becomes the first winery to offer tours, though wine tasting did not start until 1956 ("Gee, what a crappy tour! You don't even let you taste anything!").
Hey Wally, isn't Beringer a big tourist trap???
Seriously, you have got to stop listening to those people on the internet - they're all idiots! You simply cannot bypass this winery just because you think it might be crowded. True, come here on a Summer day and it's packed with tour busses and drunk bachlorettes (hmmm, could be interesting). That's why Wally suggests that you take a tour if you're coming in season to move away from the masses.
If you're short on time, the basic tour is only 30 minutes and only an extra $5 over the regular wine tasting fee. But if you have the time, the 90 minute Legacy Tour offers a more in-depth history of the winery, as well as barrel tastings of pre-release wines in the wine caves. Both fun and education, and both good strategies to get a more intimate view without the crowds.
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Come visit the famous Rhine House at Beringer |
Options, you've got options!
If you really are up for something a bit out of the ordinary, skip Beringer and head over to Schramsberg Winery, Napa's first maker of sparkling wine. What makes this tour so unique is that you do your tastings by candlelight in the actual wine caves! Schramsberg has a long history in Napa, claiming the title of second oldest winery. It went through its heyday, crashed after prohibition, then was brought back to life in the 60's when a young couple stumbled upon a broken down and deserted winery. A few years later who else but Richard "Tricky Dick" Nixon would be hoisting a glass of Schramsberg as he made a toast in China, setting the stage for Schramsberg to be the sparkling wine of choice for every president thereafter. Obama better forget about change with this one - this stuff is tasty and the tour is outstanding!
STOP 7: TIME FOR ONE MORE?
It's late in the day and you're thinking it's too early to go home, so let's stop in at one more winery. A good one is Frank Family, a boutique winery that features some very charismatic wine servers and - Free Tastings! From their sparkling wines to their terrific chardonnay and excellent reds, you'll love every taste. This is a crazy stop that only the most cynical will not enjoy. I mean, the last time I was there the young gals were sitting on the wine pourers' lap to take a picture. Try that at Opus One! Help them keep the tastings free by buying a bottle for dinner tonight if you like what you taste - remember, Rutherford Grill has NO CORKAGE fee!
Hurry, there might be time for one more stop!
For something completely different you could drive up the the castle winery, otherwise known as Castello di Amorosa. This is a full scale, real life castle, right out of Lord of the Rings. The tour here is incredible, taking you down to the dungeons (no dragons) and other secret passageways, but save that for next time and do the basic tasting - you'll still get to wander around the castle a bit, and yes, it's as incredible as it sounds. This is no Disneyland fake, this is an authentic, full scale castle, just like in the movies!
Another winery I like towards the end of the day is Mumms on the Silverado Trail. I figure you start the day with champagne, why not end it with champagne? Prices start at a very reasonable $6 per person, there's a great free photography exhibit with photos by Ansel and others, and the setting overlooking the vineyards is wonderful. They close at 5, so make sure you get there in enough time to enjoy it. And if you get there with time on your hand, don't forget that they have free tours. Wow!
But let's say you're a bit tired and want to get a snack before you head back home. High on the hill is Auberge du Soleil, a 5 star resort that has an incredible bar that overlooks the valley. Don't worry, you can dress casual to the bar. Get some appetizers, like an order of pomme frites with an aioli dipping sauce (otherwise known as "fries"), or perhaps some clams or calimari. In fact, there's a great bar menu that might tempt you to just settle back and dine here as you watch the sun set over the vineyards. Stunning views, great food, a wonderful way to end a day in Napa.
Let's Summarize.... 8 hours, 5 wineries, a fun tour, great food... no wasted time, no disappointing stops, you've done it again, Wally!
A day in Napa goes pretty fast, but if you followed my directions you got to see a lot of the highlights. As a first timer, visiting the big wineries that started it all is the perfect introduction to Napa. In fact, even well seasoned Napa visitors might want to start all over again and revisit the wineries that made them fall in love with Napa in the first place.
Hope you have a great trip to Napa! There is so much to see, so many wineries to visit, I know you'll be back. Next time we'll do some of the smaller wineries, I promise. This time, stick with me and you'll leave with a couple of souvenir glasses and a big smile on your face.
Local Wally, isn't he the greatest?
Your Pal,
Local Wally
   
Wow, look at all the cool stuff you got to do today! It's the Best of Napa, Local Wally style!
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